All in a day, or night's work. The latest pastizzi batch fresh from the oven.

Indeed, the Crystal Palace hardly ever closes – you’ll always be able to scoff pastizzi (small, flaky pastry puffs filled with mushy peas or ricotta cheese) aplenty as the palace shuts for a mere two hours on weekday nights; Fridays and weekends, it’s open all night long.

Initially, the bar opened all night to accommodate British soldiers looking for a drink and something to eat round the clock. Once the forces left the islands, the bar still opened all night. Old habits die hard. This time, its nocturnal shift served local farmers bringing their produce to the pitkali market in Rabat in early hours of the morning for weighing and re-sale to local outlets. Once the market moved to Ta’ Qali, there was another reason for Cystal Palace to open all night – this time, party-loving students from nearby discos and all-night taxi drivers became its night-time clientele.

Working at the bar, Martin sees the typical Maltese day go by over the course of 24 hours. As night becomes day, he sees the transition from night party-goers and night-shift workers to the very early risers going to their jobs and the first church-goers of the day.

The freshly baked pastizzi, which Martin himself prepares at his nearby bakery, attract a number of memorable local regulars, an array of Maltese from other towns and passing tourists who are wooed by the tasty smell.

Martin prides himself that his bar is one of the few, truly-specialised pastizzeriji left. He’s not remotely tempted to sell other or more expensive items on his menu, such as pizza, baked rice and timpana (a Bolognaise sauce pasta baked with a pastry topping). Over here, what you get is, quite simply and quite deliciously, traditional pastizzi and bread rolls.

One regular customer, a young man from the other side of Malta, says he comes all the way here for the cheap and tasty food, the tea – in a glass just like his grandmother used to serve it – and good conversation with the lively and friendly characters who congregate in this historical bar and pastizzerija, all hours of the day and night.

Crystal Palace Bar, Triq San-Pawl, Rabat.

Tony Ellul, as Pontius Pilate, takes time out from the grueling rehearsals

An initiative of the Rabat Local Council, ‘Il-Mixja’ (‘The Walk’) has introduced street theatre to the Holy Week activities all over Malta and Gozo. Alan points out that this is not your usual pageant where actors simply mime their part as the street performance passes by accompanied by a playback recording. This is live theatre played out in the streets by some of Malta’s best actor and actresses.

Playing Jesus is a challenge – both physically and mentally; all the more so in ultra-Catholic Malta. It’s hard for an actor to bring something new to the role while at the same time living up to the public’s high expectations. There’s also the physical stamina required; the role of Jesus involves carrying a cross on your back for about an hour (this year’s weighed 12 kilo, but not as bad as the 22 kilo it weighed two years back!). Then, there’s getting ‘whipped’ (not for real, but it still hurts) and having a crown of real thorns shoved onto your head. Alan points to the big scar from last Monday’s performance.

To help him get through the evening, Alan downed three energy drinks before the performance. But, there’s also some long-term planning to do if you’re to get the details right and look authentic in the role. Alan had to look physically right for the part – he has long hair, but needed to grow a beard… and go on a diet for three months to lose 10 kilos. ‘That meant no sweets since January – even at parties. And most of my friends celebrate their birthdays at this time of the year!’ explained a suffering Alan.

Directing is also a challenge. This year, ‘Il-Mixja’ had a cast of over 50 people, including 15 main characters. But Alan’s biggest nightmare proved to be the costumes. Despite having hired the costumes six months before, they were told they’d only be available the night before the actual performance! Luckily, Alan had someone with whom to share the pain of putting on the performance: producer Michael Bondin. Rabat Local Council provided funding and support, and a huge number of volunteers filled in the supporting roles and helped with the technical work, carpentry, scaffolding, costumes, sewing and other essential tasks.

But, all said and done, why do the Maltese dedicate so much time and passion to the activities of Holy Week? Alan feels that occasions like this are where the Catholic upbringing of many Maltese people can be felt still. While Christmas has become too commercial, Easter still has spirituality attached to it. A performance such as ‘Il-Mixja’ is moving not only for the public watching, but also for those taking part. There is something spiritual about doing this ‘walk’ together at night on the streets of the old town of Rabat, guided by torchlight, and in remembrance of the suffering of Jesus. The established actors who take part look forward to the play as a yearly event.

In the end, beyond being simple tradition, these are occasions for people to come together in a spirit of friendship and selflessness to recreate something which is so important to so many Maltese people.

Photos: Andrew Galea Debono