Worthy of a museum. Malta's ageing bus stock at the end of the line

Everyone in Malta has an opinion on the Maltese bus.  Including those who do not actually use a bus for transport.  In a crowded place, it’s difficult to go about your life ignoring the trundling yellow and orange (Malta) or grey and red (Gozo) machines.

The opinion camps tend to congregate along the following lines:

Buses are a necessary evil. They’re cheap, get you from point A to point B. And they’re particularly useful if you work in Valletta where parking on weekdays is a nightmare.

Buses need to be replaced. They are decrepit, smelly, dangerous, outdated, a menace to anyone on the road and driven by rude maniacs.

Buses are a remnant of a romantic past. Tourists buy models of them, photograph them and write about them. They need to be preserved as a core component of Malta’s cultural heritage.

We’ve sat on the fence on this one, merely highlighting passenger etiquette and the ecosystem.  But the wheels of progress are now in motion, spurred by public opinion that ’something needs to be done about the buses’ and it’s starting to look as if the days of the Maltese bus as we know it are indeed numbered.  Unless there’s some dramatic u-turn by the powers that be,  most of our current rolling stock will fail prescribed criteria for carbon emissions, wheel-chair accessibility and more.

If you’re alarmed by the threat of the scrap heap for the beloved Malta bus and its replacement by something equivalent to a 21st century machine, you can make some noise by signing an online petition here.

Photo: Gethin Thomas

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Flying in for Christmas? A Neopolitan crib, just one of the delights to discover here.

Before moving to live in Malta, I used to holiday here regularly over Christmas. I wasn’t really involved in family festive meals, so I was left pretty much to my own devices; somewhat an outsider to the local Xmas holidays.

That does have its pros of course – firstly, the seafronts are almost deserted during the peak lunchtime hours on Christmas day. So you can enjoy a walk with great views and dollops of sea air while others feast. Your health will be all the better for it, having broken the rule of gluttony on the 25th.

But you may ask:”Isn’t Christmas day in Malta just a bit miserable when the islanders are all inside feasting with friends?” Here’s some reassurance that there is life still for people here as tourists on Christmas holiday.

Are things closed?
Christmas Day, 25th, is the only official public holiday day, along with New Year’s Day. The 26th, called Boxing Day in the UK, is not a public holiday in Malta.

A lot of cafes in major towns, resorts and the cities – Sliema, St Julian’s, Valletta, Mdina, Bugibba, Qawra and Gozo resorts – Marsalforn, Xlendi and so on – will be open. Of course, you’d need to book ahead at restaurants, many of which will be open, if you were intending to eat out on Christmas day. But you won’t be far from a light snack, hot chocolate (it can be cold on those seafront walks) and cappuccino. Hotel cafes will be open should you not find a quainter, trendier or more traditional one open on the high streets or promenades.

Shops will be closed (apart from the enterprising traders who predict that someone will be missing a Christmas present). So some stationers may be open, but it’s the only day in the year newspapers don’t print. Cafes doubling as confectioners or bakeries will be busy as guests buy delicacies to take to their Christmas day hosts. International chains of fast food restaurants will also be open.

What’s the weather like at Christmas?
Obviously it’s a lot warmer than in Northern Europe. December daytime temperatures can be a pleasant 16-22 or more if you’re in a sheltered sunny spot. Nights are chill, and wind can swirl around. It can be damp as it’s a maritime climate, but the real cold starts in January-February. Come with layers, and be prepared for stormy periods. See our hints here.

What can I do?
If you’re wandering the streets, you can find plenty to amuse yourself looking at the various household Christmas decorations! From the traditional door wreaths to an entire plastic Santa village (as one house I saw last week near Gnejna Bay had on display!). The Christmas lights from dusk in Republic Street, Valletta, are magical. Crib viewing is a main Maltese occupation, so join the throngs. You’ll see cribs – Presepji – in all styles from the kitsch and mechnically-operated to the lovingly crafted and historic. Window shutters open to offer a peep of householders’ crib displays, while other residents turn their whole garage into a crib for public viewing. There are several major crib displays – Auberge d’Italie, Valletta; and a masterpiece of Neopolitan origin at the Carmelite Priory, Mdina; as well as an entire, life-size remake of Bethlehem at Ghajnsielem, Gozo. A word you’ll need to know is’ Pasturi’, which means ‘crib figurines’. There’s a real art and craft to making them (well) that’s carried on in Malta today.

What else is going on over the Christmas holiday period in Malta?
See our article listing events like circus, Christmas villages and pantomimes. Also see: carol concerts.

Christmas Shopping hours
Valletta has late-night shopping until 9.00pm on each Saturday in the run-up to Christmas. Sliema shops stay open late too. Bay Street complex in St Julian’s is open until 10pm. Expect to join thick crowds ambling down Valletta’s main drag, Republic Street. It’s a ritual – shopping, supping a coffee, munching a cake, and enjoying the lights. Linger when the shops close and have a relaxed supper at one of the city’s many restaurants in historic piazzas and buildings. Wine bars tempt too!

What’s Happy Christmas in Maltese?
‘Merry Christmas’ in Maltese is ‘Il-Milied it-Tajjeb!’

Christmas Eve & Christmas Day masses
The cathedrals, as well as all parish churches, have their midnight mass on Christmas Eve. The usual parish midnight mass includes the tradition, dating back to 1883, of an altar boy (or girl these days) preaching the sermon, in Maltese, which is on this occasion called ‘Il-Priedka Tat-Tifel’. It will take the child a good few weeks to learn it all by heart! Another traditional sight worth catching, again in many parishes on Christmas Day morning, is the Procession of Baby Jesus. Children from the locality dress up as biblical figures, accompanied by a band.

What is a Maltese Christmas Day lunch?
Today, the same as the traditional British one – turkey with trimmings, Christmas pudding, mince pies or some Sicilian-style desserts from a fine confectioner. The Maltese love the Italian Christmas cake, Panettone, which is dry sponge with either a little candied peel and dried fruit, or chocolate filled. Hotels will offer the traditional lunch, usually as a buffet.

Does public transport run over Christmas?
Buses run every day as usual in the Christmas period. There will be a reduced – or Sunday – service on most routes, and there won’t be many buses over the peak lunchtime hours on the 25th, as drivers need their lunch! Gozo Channel Ferry operates on Christmas Day, with a slightly reduced service.

Are museums open?
Yes, with business as usual apart from on Christmas Day itself. For state museum and sites’ opening hours, see Heritage Malta.

Photo: Peter Grima

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Eyes down, move your bag, don't speak: here comes the next punter.

Think of a perfect, ideal morning. Add a bus. Now it’s the opposite of that. Welcome to my mornings. I have been reading a lot of articles about the dismal state of Public Transport in Malta. As a student who has been using buses four times a day for the past four years, I have become somewhat an authority on the subject. I have stockpiled my fair share of interesting episodes: on a bus ride anything can happen, and believe me it does.  Then, just to spice things up, you meet one of the following people:

The One Who Can’t Keep A Queue

On early mornings, buses have a tendency of coming to your bus stop almost full. If there are twenty people on the bus stop, and only two spaces left, please let the people who were there first take them. Chances are they are even later than you are, and it is extremely frustrating to see your place being filled by someone who showed up five minutes ago when you have been waiting for thirty.

The One Who Pays With Notes

The bus fare is small change. Unless you want the driver to shout and swear at you for the next fifteen minutes, please produce coins. No one likes to hear a bus driver rant. Especially a Maltese bus driver.

The One Who Will Not Move His Stuff

I will be the first to admit that when I get on a bus and the seat next to me is empty, I use it to unload my bag. However, if you see people getting on, especially if the bus is full, please remove the bags. It is extremely uncomfortable to almost beg: ‘May I sit here?’ when the seat is obviously free. Not to mention, that you, the innocent party, come across as being antagonistic.

The One Who Stares

You pay, sit down, put your change in your pocket (if it’s graciously given to you at all), and take out a book. You feel Eyes on you. The person opposite you is gazing wide-eyed at your bag, at your book, at your clothes. You smile politely and get back to whatever you were doing. When you look again, the person is still staring. Admittedly the view isn’t much, but you could always look out the window. Or get your own book.

The One With The Loud Music

This might be the most annoying thing on the list. We get it: the music you’re listening to is God’s gift to humanity. But must you share so loudly with the rest of the unfortunate beings on the sardine tin-like bus? Some of us have headaches, are going home after a long day at work, or just simply don’t like your music. Please invest in some earphones or turn it off.

The One Who Will Not Move Back

We’ve all heard the infamous bus driver cry: “Move back please!” If the driver sees people standing up next to him he will assume that the bus is full up and not stop to let poor souls who have been waiting forever on the bus stop. Therefore, if you’re standing up, please go as far back as you can. It’s only right.

The One Who Is Chatty

After a long day on campus or after work, the last thing I feel like is making small talk with someone I haven’t seen for eight odd years. As an avoidance tactic, a book or an mp3 usually works. Yet, every so often despite these obvious barriers, I find myself making small talk on the bus. Also under this category, are people whom you don’t know from Adam, yet feel that it is perfectly acceptable to engage in deep conversation about excessive taxes or the weather. Please don’t: respect other people’s privacy.

The One On The Phone

If it’s early morning, the bus will be (thankfully) quiet. Then a particularly cringe worthy ringtone goes off and someone decides to share their conversation with the rest of the select population on the bus. Remember: if no-one is talking, everyone is listening. Keep your voice down and your conversations private.

The One Who Will Not Get Up For The Elderly

It’s rule number one for people with good manners – even Enid Blyton mentions it once or twice in her books. If you see elderly people standing up on the bus, give them your seat. It will make you feel really good inside and you’ll have done your good deed of the week.

The One Who Insists On Fresh Air

I understand that it is flu season and people are afraid of catching a cold from someone who might be sick on the bus. However, I fail to see the necessity of a wide open window in the middle of January. Just because it’s not raining doesn’t mean people aren’t freezing their toes off!

Related articles: Maltabuses & how to use them (routes, fares info etc)

Photo: Walter Lo Cascio

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Rainy days and Mondays, perhaps not the best days to tout for rides.

Manoeuvering Maltese roads is bad enough. Our driving skills come close to those of our Italian and Arab neighbours. But what’s even worse is being stuck in a Maltese rush hour jam near Valletta in the vicinity of a karozzin.

Yesterday morning the juxtaposition of old and new rankled. A karozzin driver gabbling into an iPhone, yanking the lead on the horse with his free hand, creates a domino effect of crazy manoeuvres by irate cars with dents, their occupants half-gawping, half running over the entrepreneur and his beast.

I have yet to meet a local who has owned up to having been in a karozzin when sober. In Malta, karozzin drivers’ street cred is almost at a par with our ‘allegedly’ rude bus drivers. It’s a reputation that has been built over some fifty years’ of tourism. Go to Valletta, Mdina, or Rabat, in Gozo, and you will find some naive tourist trying to negotiate a way out of being almost press-ganged into ‘having a ride with the cabbie’ or a ‘tour round the harbour’ or whatever comes out of the cabbies’ mouths. Poet-laureates these guys aren’t. They’re safeguarded as a component of Malta’s tourism, and yet they’re often seen hassling tourists or anyone with fair hair; their horses generally look world weary; and their ‘guiding capabilities’ leave much to be desired from the snippets you hear as they trundle by.

I don’t want to stereotype and tar them all with the same brush. I know every country has its ‘tourism’ artefacts, its ‘living souvenirs’. As far as I’m concerned, there’s nothing quaint about the karozzin. Vienna has its Fiakr – open horse-drawn carriages – that are polished to the hilt and driven by well-turned out men in uniform. A totally different experience, if costly (but our equivalent can be too). Fiakr can pass being described as ‘romantic’; a word that hardly trips off the tongue in relation to Malta’s karozzin, although I know many wedding organisers do add karozzin to the list of bride and groom transport.

So what makes tourists jump into a karozzin in Malta, get fleeced, and then return home to flood Flickr with their pictures?

Or have I got this all wrong?

Photo: courtesy of Kevin Archaeo

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Good job it's written, as it's rarely spoken

Malta’s buses are bound to feature hugely in anyone’s visit to the Islands. They are bright yellow and orange (in Malta) and grey and red (Gozo). Colour aside, you can’t miss them as they dominate the roads, in more ways than one. The bus fleet also sports some wonderful vintage models (usually Fords) dating back to ’50s and 60s’, if not earlier! Drivers tend to personalise their bus cabs, and it’s common to see interiors decorated with images of Elvis cheek-by-jowl with Madonnas, rosary crucifixes and tinsel left over from last Christmas. Our Flickr group photos show just how photogenic and popular Malta’s buses are. Here, one regular bus traveller, Rebecca Buttigieg, gives us her low-down on them.

The Bus System
The public bus system is licensed by the Government but run by a collective called the Public Transport Association or Assoċjazzjoni Transport Pubbliku (ATP), with each driver owning his bus.

Bus Termini and Routes
The main bus terminus is in Valletta, just outside the city gate, wrapped around the Triton fountain. You’ll know it when you see it – the dozens of bright yellow buses are difficult to miss. Almost all the bus routes in Malta start off here, and most of them end in a small terminus in one of the various villages, where the driver will wait a little while, and then make the next trip back to the city.

Catching a bus
Riding a bus is easy – stand at a bus stop and stick your hand out when a bus comes along. Get on, pay the driver, and then ring the bell just before the bus stop you want to get off at.

Which Bus Route?
Each particular bus route is assigned a two- or three-digit number, and so all you need to know is which numbers go to or through wherever you want to go. As a general rule of thumb, the routes with numbers lower than 40 serve the south of Malta, the numbers above 40 serve the north, and those between 80 and 95 serve the central area. Route numbers between 60 and 70 run to, through or from the Sliema terminus, which serves as a sort of auxiliary to the one in Valletta.

The details of the routes can be very complicated, with some routes even varying according to the time of day and season, but do not despair – when in doubt, just ask a driver, dispatcher or even fellow passengers which bus you ought to catch to get to your destination. Just be prepared for a lively discussion while the most suitable options are debated by those in the vicinity!

Tickets & fare structure
These are usually bought on a trip-by-trip basis from the driver when you board the bus, and the cost depends on whether you are travelling within or across the ‘zones’ that Malta is divided into, and whether you are using a ‘normal’ bus route (E0.47 to E0.58) or one of the special direct routes (up to E1.16 if you cross zones). There are concessions for children and senior citizens, just ask the driver.

Passes valid for one or more days are available, but the pricing means that you only save money if you take several bus rides each day, or if you use the more expensive routes. This makes them a great option for sightseeing expeditions, but not so much if you only need to get somewhere and back.

Frustrations of using Maltese buses
The system can be a frustrating experience due to its limitations – most routes only operate between 6am and 9 or 10pm (excepting the night service laid on for Paceville), and although there are scheduled times, sometimes a bus just doesn’t show up. Passengers often complain about unreliable service and drivers’ behaviour, especially with regard to manners, giving incorrect change, and smoking. Likewise, drivers complain about passengers who are rude and who leave litter, leftovers and even graffiti behind on the bus. For these reasons, there is generally little love lost between drivers and passengers.

On the positive side
Such as it is though, the system does function quite well for the most part, especially on weekday mornings, and it enables thousands of people who can’t or won’t use a car to get around the island. The sad thing is that many car-users who would otherwise love to leave their cars at home refuse to use the bus system because of its inefficiencies and reputation for unreliability. But buses are cheap, so you can’t have everything! Tourists meanwhile often find the buses quaint and for them, bus rides are all part of the Malta experience, if a somewhat hot one in peak summer.

A reform is pending, which should involve, among other things, a new system of bus routes designed to provide better coverage. It will be interesting to see if this reform succeeds, and what changes it will bring to the system.

A final word: I ride buses on a daily basis, and I have been left stranded innumerable times. I tried to be fair though in my comments.

Useful Stuff
The Official ATP website for its list of ‘Malta Bus Routes 2008′.
Malta by Bus: a site run by a British enthusiast of Malta buses. It’s a great source for all things quirky on Malta’s buses, including their history, book annuals of vintage buses, as well as route info.

Photo: Gethin Thomas
Author Rebecca Buttigieg runs a blog called maltagirl.

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A typical Maltese shop; but not shopping as most expats know it.

Despite having lived, worked and travelled in many different countries, coming to live in Malta took a lot of getting used to. Of course, there is no massive culture shock or language barrier to negotiate; my British sense of humour is understood; there’s shared history; and shops stock Marmite and Heinz Baked Beans.

But, there are of course some things to get used to in order to settle in to a new pattern of life. Most of my early struggles were about getting around and shopping.

Here’s how I dealt with them and why I get a smile on my face when I reflect on them now.

Things to despair over (at first)

Getting Around

Walking: In August, heavily pregnant, with two very young kids – on pavements which are either non-existent, look as if they were built on a fault line and are just too narrow for a buggy. I tried, I really did.
Driving: I was used to walking to shops, pools and parks, bussing to museums, tubing to work. Here in Malta, most things are a drive away – albeit a short one – but that means braving the roads…
The Roads: Potholes a plenty – unless there’s a big sign announcing EU funding for works. Make sure your tyres have a bit of give in them.
The Road signs: Key junctions and roundabouts are bereft of signs… maps don’t help. Allow plenty of time, know the general direction you are heading in, and memorise the place names, just in case there is a random sign.
The Road Users: Snail snow or furiously fast. Overtaking irresistable, particularly on hills, blind curves, approaching junctions etc. No use of indicators, ever. I now drive very defensively, and usually very calmly.

Shopping

Opening Hours: In my village, I think the shops open at 6am. I know they close between 12 and 4, but don’t re-open on a Wednesday afternoon, or a Saturday afternoon, and never on a Sunday. But I now know where to get the UK papers on a Sunday morning, and where to get fresh bread any time of day or night.
Milk: In the UK, I used to buy 4-litre recyclable cartons to last the family a few days. In Malta, milk comes in non-recyclable cartons and 1 litre is the biggest size – which in the heat of summer can go off anyway before you get it home.
Hawkers: The best type of ‘man with a van’ (I rarely see female hawkers), where I love to get bread, fruit, veg and fish which are fresh that morning. If I can find the van that is! Different days and times mean it’s in different locations. I still haven’t figured it out, and have been known to drive round the village in hot pursuit.
Choice: I used to live on little tubs of hummous, bagged salad, any fruit and veg, any time of year, preferably hand-picked from organic slopes, the odd ready meal…I was shocked that none of this was available. But my wallet and my waistline have benefited.
With Kids: In the village store, aisles are narrow, shelves stacked precariously and cakes at toddlers’ eye level. Very stressful. Supermarkets have more space, but none had trollies with seats for more than one child. Very uncharacteristically, very few people offered to help with unloading/packing bags/getting to the car.

….And the delights

Getting Around

Traffic Jams are practically non-existent – once every few months I may get stuck for 10 minutes if I’m very unlucky. Though, accidents do gridlock roads pretty quickly.
Vintage vehicles: The ancient, cherished cars and vans still delight me – I even saw a motorbike with a side car the other day.
The buses: Always cheap, usually reliable, often full of character – and a great outing with the kids!
Getting lost: Many times I have stopped to ask someone directions, and they have jumped into the car to direct me and make sure I know where to park.

Shopping

Everyone delivers: So I don’t need to brave the narrow aisles with the incomprehensible queue-jumping or the terrible trollies. One ex-pat friend with a new-born would SMS the veg man and get the baker to leave ftira on her door. All with no charge and lots of smiles.
Less choice means less temptation: I just don’t really shop much, which means I save loads of money, and my kids aren’t hanging out in malls and exposed to rampant consumerism.
Fresh, seasonal produce: In the UK people will pay a premium for locally-grown fruit and veg. Here, it’s a fact of life – if we could buy tasteless strawberries 365 days a year, would we still enjoy the sublime taste of the local harvest in early summer?

All this, makes me smile, and it still does…

Photo: Gethin Thomas

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Hire a car to get around Malta and come bumper to bumper with this gleaming relic!

It’s easy to assume that because Malta is small, you can rely on public transport and taxis to get around. We do in fact know of some instances of foreigners moving here and still relying on taxis two years down the line. But, they haven’t really got to see much of Malta in that time. OK, so they are not adding more cars to the road in a country which already ranks 5th worldwide for cars per 1,000 people (the UK ranks 24th). However, we do think that Malta can’t be experienced properly without having wheels of your own. So we’ve some quick tips on getting around:

1. Public transport is cheap, gets you to most towns and villages (via Valletta, in Malta and via Rabat, in Gozo) – but it’s slow, can get crowded and just fails to work after the witching hour or even before. By all means get on a bus for the experience – some people find the old bangers quaint. We think that your time here is too precious to waste on slow, smelly, hot bus journeys. Waiting on a hot bus-stop in scorching 35 degrees is no fun. And our bus drivers are a rule to themselves, despite various attempt at upgrading basic levels of customer care.

2. Taxis are expensive. And a few irresponsible individuals have given the whole trade a bit of a bad name on the island. You’ll find out from hearsay whether it’s best to use the ‘white’ or the ‘black’ cabs! But if you can avoid them, do so and save your pocket.

3. Hiring a car is still good value. Competition is fierce; all the major brands operate here as well as local companies that do go out of their way to provide you with the right car or motorcycle to give you the freedom to set out your own itineraries.

4. When hiring a car, do pay to get the extra full-cover for insurance. Malta is not blessed with brilliant drivers, and for many visitors, driving on the right side of the road can be bewildering. Do make sure that part of the deal is a full breakdown service.

5. Unless you have a large family, hire a small, economical car with air-conditioning. Parking bays in Malta are small, and you don’t want to get ruffled trying to park while a queue of irate drivers builds up behind you. Though, admittedly, you can get more street cred driving a Zodiac or a Zephyr (see photo above!).

6. Stay safe. If you’re uncertain about driving on the left-hand side of the road, just drive slowly. Do not be intimidated by aggressive drivers. Malta has its own share of local drivers who drive in the shade or crawl – join them until you have got your bearings. We’ve got some further tips in this feature.

7. Get out of your immediate ‘comfort’ zone. Sadly, a lot of visitors never get beyond the immediate environs of their hotels – that is, they get to see Paceville and Bugibba, which quite frankly, could be in any Med resort. Point your car towards the south of the island, and go in search of the traditional fishmarket at Marsaxlokk on Sunday, Birgu as the sun is setting, or Zurrieq for a late drink. Drive to places like Siggiewi, Mqabba and Qrendi. Go for pastizzi at the Crystal Palace, Rabat, in the early hours of the morning. Point your car north and go in search of an almost desertedbeach for an early morning swim, or go for a walk on Dingli Cliffs.

8. You will get lost, and that’s part of the experience. Signposting is still approximative in some more rural areas and even in towns. Roll down your window and ask a local. Nearly everyone speaks English and some Italian. Locals often stop mid road for a chat with a friend they’ve spotted so don’t be worried about holding up traffic!

9. Do watch out for speed cameras. They’re fairly well sign-posted, but can crop up in unexpected places and speed limits vary between 60 and 70 km per hour, sometimes in the same stretch of road. Maltese drivers have a terrible tendency to hit their brakes when approaching a speed camera – ‘front to rear’ collisions are frequent occurrences. So common are these shunts that we witnessed one the other day in which the driver causing the accident couldn’t even be bothered to get out to inspect the damage to his car, let alone worry about the one in front!

10. Speed humps can sometimes appear when you least expect them – in village cores usually. Over-enthusiastic councils, keen to make a buck rather than solely stem accidents, have placed them less than 50 metres apart from each other at times. Do as locals do and either crawl to a virtual halt or drive at speed over them and see how your car suspension takes the ride (at least it’s a hire car, not yours!).

11. If you get a ticket for a parking contravention, just let your car hire company know and pay up. The fines are not extortionate – but you don’t want nasty letters to arrive in your mailbox once you’re back home or find a lump sum off your credit card.

12. If you are involved in a traffic accident, call your car hire company immediately. It can avoid a lot of hassle. Just don’t get involved in any arguments with the other party – use common sense rules of courtesy. Traffic Accident Reporting: 2132 0202

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One wreck, one mean machine, and patchy Tarmac: a typical sight on Malta's roads

Why don’t most drivers in Malta indicate? Perhaps the heat makes twitching that hand on the indicator too much effort? But, then again, it’s a year-round problem.

If the car in front does bother to indicate, don’t be fooled – it may well turn in the opposite direction from that indicated. Often, a driver will indicate after, or at best when making the manoeuvre. I’ve coined the term ‘explanator’ for the indicator’s use here in Malta.

Driving in Malta, especially if you’re new to the islands, can be daunting. For some, it’s sheer fun; for others, it’s sheer hell. It’s got better in my 15 years here. I used to see people going the wrong way round roundabouts to take a short cut.

I’ve been a passenger in a car in Tripoli, Libya (a white knuckle ride) and driven in Italy. Malta presents a far easier driving experience than those. All the more so if you come from a nation with right-hand drive vehicles. So, don’t be put off. Car hire is still good value here compared to most in the EU. And a hire car can get you places route buses can’t quickly or easily. But…

…you’ll need to keep your wits about you if you do hire a car in Malta. Here are some tips to safer driving in Malta:

Drive on the left.
But expect cars to be anywhere on the road, dodging potholes, or driving in the shade, as we like to joke! Many drivers drift out of their lane, so beware when overtaking on dual-lane roads and watch out for drifting on multi-lane gyratory systems and roundabouts.

Roundabout etiquette
Give way to the right on approach, but if you’re on the roundabout, expect cars to shoot on in front of you. Roundabouts are still, literally, a hit and miss affair with rules. I’ve seen people park to let out passengers on roundabouts, reverse on them, and double park on the edges to have a chat. Also, drivers often get in the wrong lane on the roundabout and cut you up when they exit.

Side Junctions
Many drivers don’t seem able to judge your speed/distance when they’re turning out onto a main road. They often lurch out into your path, and then crawl! You’ll end up checking your breaks at each and every side junction you pass as knee-jerk reaction to this phenomenon! It’s the kangeroo-effect driving!

Vehicles with “Y” plates
Maltese number plates have three letters, and three numbers. Beware those whose last letter is “Y”. They are taxis, minibuses, buses, public transport vehicles and so on. They know the roads, and drive often as if they own them.

K number plates
These are hire cars. While not all K reg. cars are hired by visitors to Malta, try to allow drivers of these cars some leeway, and hang back. Visitors may well not know the roads, or where they are (highly likely given the signposting).

Road quality
This has improved a lot in recent years, thanks to upgrades part-funded by the EU. Most main arterial roads are reasonably good. But the Birkirkara by-pass, and road north to the Gozo ferry are very patchy. And good road surfaces can suddenly come to an end and disintegrate into road works, potholes, ruts and worse. A friend of mine got her car stuck in ruts – not the historic cart ruts of course – on the Dingli Cliff road last winter, and had to be towed out!

Overtaking
It’s not supposed to be the American freeway system here, but make sure your inside wing mirror is in tact, as you’ll need it! Overtaking on the inside is very common, as is weaving in and out of traffic lanes, at speed, and without indicating!

Speed
Limits are 80km/hr on open roads, and 50km/hr in built-up areas. But you won’t get much faster anyway and expect to be at 70km/hr and 35km/hr in reality. Watch out for local speed limits. Local councils have imposed numerous speed restriction, often accompanied by a speed camera. Also, be aware that Maltese drivers like to drive in spurts – particularly near speed cameras – either full speed or at a crawl, so expect erratic speeds from the cars around you!

Driving licences
National and international driving licences are accepted.

Insurance
Wise to take our fully comprehensive if you hire.

Public Transport
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Photo: Alex Grech
Additional research for this post: Annabel Mallia.

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Malta as it once was: agricultural life writ large

Only around three per cent of Malta’s population is engaged in agriculture, but the fruits of its labour can be seen at any veggie cart or shop. Some traditional Maltese farming villages though, like Mgarr in the North and Siggiewi near the west coast have new-found fame for celebrating their long and much loved ties with the land: Mgarr holds its strawberry fair in May, and Siggiewi held an agricultural bonanza last weekend (13-14 June). Judging by the numbers of non locals at both events, it seems rural life is becoming more in vogue, even among the town dwellers.

Siggiewi’s now annual agricultural fare kicks off on the Saturday evening at dusk and is a mishmash of a livestock show, heritage event and farmers’ market – and an excuse for local folk to get some air; it’s also a prelude to the villlage festa, just two weeks on.

The pageantry was a reenactment of the Grand Master handing over a falcon to Holy Roman Emperor Charles V as rental payment for the Maltese Islands. It was a charming cameo that enthralled the kids, as did another slice of history – the ancient threshing machine that took pride of place in the square. It rattled and hummed into action, man atop loading straw, and was soon spewing out chaff all over the gathered crowd.

A small tent housed old agricultural implements and canteen items that farmers would use in the fields to brew up coffee. In fact, you could see the brewing in action as nearby sat an old lady, in typical floral dress/apron, turning a coffee bean roaster over an open fire (see photo below). A stall next to her was serving the clove-flavoured coffee for free to an appreciative, and curious crowd.

The livestock on display was there mainly for the children to pet – Falabella ponies, donkeys, prize sheep and goat breeds, some with their young, and a lama – so nothing that would pull a plowshare. The next morning saw the ‘blessing’ of the animals at 08.30 (before it gets too hot), and some heavy horses on display (ah, something that would pull a plowshare!).

Both evening and morning saw stallholders selling some genuine local produce, including thyme honey, certified organic olive oil (impressively with an EU accreditation on it) and lots of peaches and tomatoes, which grow well in the Siggiewi area. The olive oil producer, Ta’ Zeppi, said he offered agri-tourism tours; best in autumn though when the harvest is in and being pressed.

It’s heart-warming that Malta is beginning to relish its rural past, and to see skills, crafts and genuine Maltese produce appreciated by young and old, and locals and visitors alike.

To glimpse rural life, even if you miss the various fares, try an open-top bus ride on a London-type, double-decker bus with MaltaSightSeeing. They leave from Sliema ferries (the main front), and do a southern and northern tour visiting villages and less touristy localities. You can hop on and off, wander round a village and get the next bus onwards.

Roasting coffee beans, Maltese style

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