A cliche' but it wouldn't be summer in Malta without it

Suddenly this week, we’ve had all too hot a reminder that we’re in June. Summer 2010 has had till now a late and shaky start with some wild windy days, and some sultry overcast skies heavy with thunder. But, the rising mercury is screaming summer now, so dust off memories of summers past in Malta, or anywhere else you’ve holidayed in the Med, and see if this list rings any bells with you.

You know it’s summer when…

- The cat won’t move for hours on end
- Ants start invading your kitchen
- Yells, bells and smells greet you on every street (festas, food stalls, car windows open, TVs blaring through open doors…)
- Families, old and young members like, perch outside on chairs, doorsteps and kerbs to chat
- Drivers of heavy vehicles strip to vests
- Valletta’s (old) City Gate (soon to be no more) reeks of sweets, diesel and sweat
- Tarmac starts to melt and rutch up
- Kids eat an ice cream a day
- Tourists are on the beach at midday; while Maltese turn up after 5.30pm
- Drivers start getting more abusive as heat = road rage
- You hear every festa wherever you are on the islands
- Town and village festas close roads and cause tailbacks (people kerb-crawling watching fireworks)
- There’s barely a local to be seen in village streets after midday.
- You can park in Valletta easily after midday – public servants have all gone home!
- Government offices rarely answer phones after midday
- Paceville is a no-go zone for a whole lot of reasons!
- You can hear clubbing venues’ music even if you’re miles away
- Beer not wine is the drink you want when dining out
- Aircon firms charge a whole lot more for call-outs (get servicing done by end May next year!)
- Whole families perch quayside with fishing rods as the sun sets
- Beaches get BBQs galore
- Beaches get filled up by large groups of language students (from midday at weekends, so plan to go other times!)
- You know it’s summer when you’ve had enough of going to the beach and look elsewhere for things to do.

The list is endless, so do add your own summer in Malta characteristics…

Photo: Anne Muscat Scerri of Cloudberry Images

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Weird cherub waiving from gilded horse-drawn hearse. The best send off a man can have.

15.15, April 19th, Siggiewi piazza, Malta, and the bells are tolling. Another day, another dime for me and another death being celebrated 100 metres away from my computer screen. Most days see me wake to bells for a funeral squeezed between the frequent morning masses. I return most afternoons to find no parking as mourners have filched the spaces. Death is so much part of our lives we scarcely notice the hearses decked in white carnations sidled up by the church .

We did yesterday though. I could hardly believe what I saw. Two pairs of fine black horses, plumed and polished; one pair pulling the ‘hearse’; the other a carriage that was shaped like those you find Cinderella in on her way to the ball – a kind of Rococco, gilded affair. The funeral directors stood around as they always do, hands in pockets, waiting for the off. My son expected them to be in coiffed wigs, with doublet and hose instead of regular suits.

We wrote about Malta’s love of celebrating death a few months back. A comment came in saying an enterprising funeral director was branching out into Sicilian-style horse-drawn hearses, but we’d never come across one until yesterday. It really was an amazing sight, rare still, but one I think might start catching on. The cabby told us the guy who died ‘loved horses’. A shame then he didn’t get to see it all!

Eerily beautiful in stark silhouette

Photos: Alex Grech

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Worthy of a museum. Malta's ageing bus stock at the end of the line

Everyone in Malta has an opinion on the Maltese bus.  Including those who do not actually use a bus for transport.  In a crowded place, it’s difficult to go about your life ignoring the trundling yellow and orange (Malta) or grey and red (Gozo) machines.

The opinion camps tend to congregate along the following lines:

Buses are a necessary evil. They’re cheap, get you from point A to point B. And they’re particularly useful if you work in Valletta where parking on weekdays is a nightmare.

Buses need to be replaced. They are decrepit, smelly, dangerous, outdated, a menace to anyone on the road and driven by rude maniacs.

Buses are a remnant of a romantic past. Tourists buy models of them, photograph them and write about them. They need to be preserved as a core component of Malta’s cultural heritage.

We’ve sat on the fence on this one, merely highlighting passenger etiquette and the ecosystem.  But the wheels of progress are now in motion, spurred by public opinion that ’something needs to be done about the buses’ and it’s starting to look as if the days of the Maltese bus as we know it are indeed numbered.  Unless there’s some dramatic u-turn by the powers that be,  most of our current rolling stock will fail prescribed criteria for carbon emissions, wheel-chair accessibility and more.

If you’re alarmed by the threat of the scrap heap for the beloved Malta bus and its replacement by something equivalent to a 21st century machine, you can make some noise by signing an online petition here.

Photo: Gethin Thomas

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Grey skies or blue? There's a right time for everyone to holiday in Malta

A little internet research – here too we hope – and you’ll probably have a good idea of the main reasons why the Maltese Islands stack up as a holiday destination for you in 2010.

You are a diver, you want to learn English or holiday somewhere English is spoken, you’re seeking some Mediterranean winter sun, you’re a walker, or you’ve heard about the 6,000 odd years of history and the UNSECO World Heritage that awaits. Or you’ve kids and think a lot to do in small space (less travelling around time!) and some beaches with cafes will do the family holiday job nicely.

So much for the ‘why’, but what about when to come to Malta to make the most of it?

Some dates to plan for, or avoid

Maltese public holidays 2010, click here

With Kids
Clearly, you are stuck with coming when your children have school holidays. But bear in mind the Maltese school holidays too, as many parks, beaches, playgrounds, seafronts, gardens, activity & fun centres (like Playmobil) and the newly-opened Ta’ Qali Adventure Park (near the national stadium, Attard) will be more crowded. Malta is small, so space for kids recreation can be limited and under pressure. On the plus side, your own children will find Maltese kids to play with which is ideal if you’re with a only child! Also, you’ll find that in Malta’s school holidays, there are activities laid on – such as the hands-on workshops at the Centre for Creativity at St James Cavalier, Valletta. Note that flight prices always go up to coincide with school breaks, both UK and Maltese ones. Note too that often local and UK mid terms don’t quite coincide.

Malta School holiday dates (most schools):
15 – 17 February, mid spring term break
Easter holidays: 26 March – 11th April
1 June – most schools on half days
25-28 June – beginning of summer holidays lasting 3 months till late September.
1 – 3 November: mid autumn term break
17 December: Christmas holidays start

Cultural Activities & Sightseeing
Summer is often too hot for comfort to really enjoy sightseeing, so avoid peak months mid/late June to early September if you can. Baking out on exposed rocky hillside visiting the prehistoric temples at Hagar Qim isn’t pleasant. Even though boat trips take the edge of the heat, you can get sunstroke unless you are careful and well protected. Shoulder months, even winter, are far better for getting around to cultural sights, comfortably. Most people’s holidays in Malta are a mix of activities so, of course, seek some culture even in the summer. Nothing beats sultry summer evenings out. So choose to enjoy events after sundown, such as those of the near month-long Malta Summer Arts Festival in July. Here are some key cultural diary dates to coincide with, but check our What’s On for others. We’ll link to relevant the websites as they come on stream.

Carnival, 12-16 February; a riot of fun and colourful floats pre-Lent. Family fun.
Ghanafest, 28-30 May: a weekend festival celebrating traditional music & food from Malta and with guest performers from around the Mediterranean. Ideal for the family.
Malta International Jazz Festival, 15-17 July: a major and magical event by Grand Harbour which has attracted true, international greats of the jazz scene to Malta since it started 19 years ago.
Malta Summer Arts Festival: first 3 weeks of July. It’s a bonanza of performance, music and dance with events held in open air in gardens as well as historic venues. Something from almost all artistic forms and for everyone.
Notte Bianca, 2 October: held in Valletta on the first Saturday in October each year, this ‘white night’ is a celebration of culture and the arts in Malta’s capital.
Birgu Festival around 8-10 October. Birgu’s (Vittoriosa’s) answer to Notte Bianca. Street stalls, music, event and food. Candlelit procession at dusk on the Saturday. Family fun.
Village & Town Festas: all summer long! Some of the main ones.

Other regular festivals include the early May Strawberry Fair at Mgarr; the Pumpkin Festival, same venue, in early November; the Mdina Festival, early March; the Siggiewi Agricultural Fair in June for a touch of local, rural tradition; Malta International Fireworks Festival, early May; and numerous other foodie festivals including bread, oranges and tomatoes.

Learning English
A year-round option depending on whether you’re a student or working. Bear in mind that Easter and the peak summer months (mid-June to early September) see a vast number of young people come to the Islands to learn English. So, expect crowds, larger classes, extra-curricula activities to be in large groups to over-crowded sites and beaches. Schools run small group, one-to-one and specialised English courses as well, but the whole atmosphere will be louder in summer months!

Diving & Sailing
Other almost all-year-round activities, so feel free to plan shoulder month vacations to enjoy these sports. While you might hit bad weather, you might just as easily have the glorious autumn weather we had in 2009 until Christmas. That said, October’s Rolex Middle Sea Race last year saw teams battle their coldest event in years with some icy squalls. In contrast, November was hot and sunny though. Divers say that you see more underwater life in the off-season months as the interesting fish tend to come closer to shore then. Sea temperatures range from 25°C in August to around 17°C in December and down to around 15°C in January-February.
Malta Weather & Sea Temperatures
Browse our Diving articles
Browse our Sailing articles

Walking
Shoulder months and winter are the optimal times to hike and ramble and enjoy the countryside when it’s green, lush and less hot to explore. At all times of year though, do pack plenty of drink and some energy boosting snacks and apply sun screen. While urban areas have snack bars aplenty, the countryside, especially on coastal hikes (Dingli and Fawwara, most of Gozo, Mellieha and so on) is quite isolated in Maltese terms and devoid of food pit stops.
Browse countryside articles
Browse walking in Malta & Gozo articles

Senior Citizens
A few tips here: don’t assume Malta has Caribbean-style winter sun and do be prepared for crowds and very high temperatures in peak summer. Winter temperatures will be higher than those in northern Europe, but come with clothing for wet, damp and chill weather. See our tips on ‘what to pack for a Maltese winter‘. Check about the heating in your accommodation. See ‘heating a Maltese house in winter‘, for some idea of what we do heat with here so you can ask! Hotels might not always have the heating on sufficiently high – I’ve heard of very chill hotel rooms. Be prepared. Similarly, check about aircons and fans. A lot of hotels now offer spa facilities which make a good leisure option especially in winter months. You can either book the odd treatment or plan a full week of therapy and pampering.
Related links:
Travelling by bus in Malta
Reasons to Love Malta in Winter

Accommodation
Do check if holidaying in peak summer that your chosen hotel isn’t packing in language students (3 or more to a room), if you don’t want noisy corridors and to be kept awake at night. It can happen. Some 3 or lower 4 star hotels have filled spare capacity with students in recent summers. Our forum should help provide this kind of info when it’s launched – details here. We’re doing a separate article on accommodation (rental apartments vs hotels, which towns for what type of accommodation and so on, so we’ll just mention this one date-related issue here for now.

Photo: Leslie Vella

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Aerodynamic and all ready for the next learner pilot: the DA40 of Diamond Flight Training

I have flying in my blood. My father was in the R.A.F for 15 years on Lincoln bombers, and went on to fly VC10s and Tristars with British Airways, just passing up on Concorde as he was nearing retirement by then. So, I was delighted to get the chance recently to fly over Malta on an hour-long trial flight aboard a light aircraft with Diamond Flight Training.

However much big jet flying you do, you won’t really be prepared for the experience of a light aircraft. I’d been in a glider once, on a swelteringly hot day in southern England, and had felt the worse for wear. I imagined a light aircraft to be a similar ride. Thankfully, it was a stable affair: the weather was fine, wind light, and the visibility excellent. The optimal conditions for a trial flight and prospective learner.

Why Malta makes sense for learner pilots
The beauty of learning to fly in Malta is that you get ideal conditions almost all year round for flight training. Jeremy Tan, chief flight instructor at Diamond Flight Training, said that the Islands had a lot to offer those training for their pilot’s licence in an intense period, as well as qualified pilots seeking to log hours and refresh skills. “Malta has fantastic weather conditions and great scenery from the air. It also offers a value-for-money base for someone wanting to learn to fly over two to three months. We’ve a location geared to a holiday as well – a flexible choice of accommodation, as well as other leisure options. So a social life comes with your course too.”

What it takes to train
Diamond Flight Training is Malta’s newest flying school. Based at Malta International Airport, on the outer reaches near to the old airport buildings, it uses two new DA20 and DA40 planes (two- and four-seater); the type used by the US and other military for flight training. Jeremy explains that getting a private pilot’s licence requires a minimum of 45 hours of flight training, with an average in Europe for most people of about 55 hours to gain a private pilot licence (PPL). Training involves a minimum of 100 hours ground school – or studying the theoretical aspects of training – using computer-based training facilities under supervision at Diamond Fight’s centre, Luqa.

“We customise the training to suit. I would reckon on taking around 10-12 weeks to complete training if you study hard and get the hours in. Luckily, since we’ve such good weather in Malta, you can expect to get up flying more often early on in your course than in some other locations,” Jeremy says.

Trial Flights
On a trial flight, you get to taste flying the plane immediately, with the reassurance of the dual controls. Before setting out though, Jeremy takes you through the safety procedures, explains use of the radio and intercom (don’t speak while air traffic control is on, and so on), as well as giving you a run through the key features of the cockpit. You can see why the DA20s and 40s are used for training – they are sleek and trim and have cockpits with the ultimate in usability in mind, and therefore designed for learners’ needs.

Once up, and once you’ve a feel for both the horizon outside and on the cockpit screen, you get to nudge the joy stick and bank the aircraft, gently circling landmarks like Grand Harbour and Mdina. Later, we head to Gozo. The islands’ airspace is divided in sections, and to fly each, we require air traffic clearance.

I have to admit I spent a lot of time clicking photos. I discovered parts of Malta I never knew existed – a far greener and pleasanter land below than my regular car routes reveal. Even if you don’t go the whole hog and learn to fly, a trial flight is an experience and one not to pass over whether you’re visiting Malta or living here.

More Info:
For full details of pilot training for JAA PPL (Private Pilot Licence) and trial flights, see: Diamond Fight Training (Malta).
Trial lesson rates:
DA20 Euro175.00 per hr
DA40 Euro200.00 per hr

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Flying in for Christmas? A Neopolitan crib, just one of the delights to discover here.

Before moving to live in Malta, I used to holiday here regularly over Christmas. I wasn’t really involved in family festive meals, so I was left pretty much to my own devices; somewhat an outsider to the local Xmas holidays.

That does have its pros of course – firstly, the seafronts are almost deserted during the peak lunchtime hours on Christmas day. So you can enjoy a walk with great views and dollops of sea air while others feast. Your health will be all the better for it, having broken the rule of gluttony on the 25th.

But you may ask:”Isn’t Christmas day in Malta just a bit miserable when the islanders are all inside feasting with friends?” Here’s some reassurance that there is life still for people here as tourists on Christmas holiday.

Are things closed?
Christmas Day, 25th, is the only official public holiday day, along with New Year’s Day. The 26th, called Boxing Day in the UK, is not a public holiday in Malta.

A lot of cafes in major towns, resorts and the cities – Sliema, St Julian’s, Valletta, Mdina, Bugibba, Qawra and Gozo resorts – Marsalforn, Xlendi and so on – will be open. Of course, you’d need to book ahead at restaurants, many of which will be open, if you were intending to eat out on Christmas day. But you won’t be far from a light snack, hot chocolate (it can be cold on those seafront walks) and cappuccino. Hotel cafes will be open should you not find a quainter, trendier or more traditional one open on the high streets or promenades.

Shops will be closed (apart from the enterprising traders who predict that someone will be missing a Christmas present). So some stationers may be open, but it’s the only day in the year newspapers don’t print. Cafes doubling as confectioners or bakeries will be busy as guests buy delicacies to take to their Christmas day hosts. International chains of fast food restaurants will also be open.

What’s the weather like at Christmas?
Obviously it’s a lot warmer than in Northern Europe. December daytime temperatures can be a pleasant 16-22 or more if you’re in a sheltered sunny spot. Nights are chill, and wind can swirl around. It can be damp as it’s a maritime climate, but the real cold starts in January-February. Come with layers, and be prepared for stormy periods. See our hints here.

What can I do?
If you’re wandering the streets, you can find plenty to amuse yourself looking at the various household Christmas decorations! From the traditional door wreaths to an entire plastic Santa village (as one house I saw last week near Gnejna Bay had on display!). The Christmas lights from dusk in Republic Street, Valletta, are magical. Crib viewing is a main Maltese occupation, so join the throngs. You’ll see cribs – Presepji – in all styles from the kitsch and mechnically-operated to the lovingly crafted and historic. Window shutters open to offer a peep of householders’ crib displays, while other residents turn their whole garage into a crib for public viewing. There are several major crib displays – Auberge d’Italie, Valletta; and a masterpiece of Neopolitan origin at the Carmelite Priory, Mdina; as well as an entire, life-size remake of Bethlehem at Ghajnsielem, Gozo. A word you’ll need to know is’ Pasturi’, which means ‘crib figurines’. There’s a real art and craft to making them (well) that’s carried on in Malta today.

What else is going on over the Christmas holiday period in Malta?
See our article listing events like circus, Christmas villages and pantomimes. Also see: carol concerts.

Christmas Shopping hours
Valletta has late-night shopping until 9.00pm on each Saturday in the run-up to Christmas. Sliema shops stay open late too. Bay Street complex in St Julian’s is open until 10pm. Expect to join thick crowds ambling down Valletta’s main drag, Republic Street. It’s a ritual – shopping, supping a coffee, munching a cake, and enjoying the lights. Linger when the shops close and have a relaxed supper at one of the city’s many restaurants in historic piazzas and buildings. Wine bars tempt too!

What’s Happy Christmas in Maltese?
‘Merry Christmas’ in Maltese is ‘Il-Milied it-Tajjeb!’

Christmas Eve & Christmas Day masses
The cathedrals, as well as all parish churches, have their midnight mass on Christmas Eve. The usual parish midnight mass includes the tradition, dating back to 1883, of an altar boy (or girl these days) preaching the sermon, in Maltese, which is on this occasion called ‘Il-Priedka Tat-Tifel’. It will take the child a good few weeks to learn it all by heart! Another traditional sight worth catching, again in many parishes on Christmas Day morning, is the Procession of Baby Jesus. Children from the locality dress up as biblical figures, accompanied by a band.

What is a Maltese Christmas Day lunch?
Today, the same as the traditional British one – turkey with trimmings, Christmas pudding, mince pies or some Sicilian-style desserts from a fine confectioner. The Maltese love the Italian Christmas cake, Panettone, which is dry sponge with either a little candied peel and dried fruit, or chocolate filled. Hotels will offer the traditional lunch, usually as a buffet.

Does public transport run over Christmas?
Buses run every day as usual in the Christmas period. There will be a reduced – or Sunday – service on most routes, and there won’t be many buses over the peak lunchtime hours on the 25th, as drivers need their lunch! Gozo Channel Ferry operates on Christmas Day, with a slightly reduced service.

Are museums open?
Yes, with business as usual apart from on Christmas Day itself. For state museum and sites’ opening hours, see Heritage Malta.

Photo: Peter Grima

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Eyes down, move your bag, don't speak: here comes the next punter.

Think of a perfect, ideal morning. Add a bus. Now it’s the opposite of that. Welcome to my mornings. I have been reading a lot of articles about the dismal state of Public Transport in Malta. As a student who has been using buses four times a day for the past four years, I have become somewhat an authority on the subject. I have stockpiled my fair share of interesting episodes: on a bus ride anything can happen, and believe me it does.  Then, just to spice things up, you meet one of the following people:

The One Who Can’t Keep A Queue

On early mornings, buses have a tendency of coming to your bus stop almost full. If there are twenty people on the bus stop, and only two spaces left, please let the people who were there first take them. Chances are they are even later than you are, and it is extremely frustrating to see your place being filled by someone who showed up five minutes ago when you have been waiting for thirty.

The One Who Pays With Notes

The bus fare is small change. Unless you want the driver to shout and swear at you for the next fifteen minutes, please produce coins. No one likes to hear a bus driver rant. Especially a Maltese bus driver.

The One Who Will Not Move His Stuff

I will be the first to admit that when I get on a bus and the seat next to me is empty, I use it to unload my bag. However, if you see people getting on, especially if the bus is full, please remove the bags. It is extremely uncomfortable to almost beg: ‘May I sit here?’ when the seat is obviously free. Not to mention, that you, the innocent party, come across as being antagonistic.

The One Who Stares

You pay, sit down, put your change in your pocket (if it’s graciously given to you at all), and take out a book. You feel Eyes on you. The person opposite you is gazing wide-eyed at your bag, at your book, at your clothes. You smile politely and get back to whatever you were doing. When you look again, the person is still staring. Admittedly the view isn’t much, but you could always look out the window. Or get your own book.

The One With The Loud Music

This might be the most annoying thing on the list. We get it: the music you’re listening to is God’s gift to humanity. But must you share so loudly with the rest of the unfortunate beings on the sardine tin-like bus? Some of us have headaches, are going home after a long day at work, or just simply don’t like your music. Please invest in some earphones or turn it off.

The One Who Will Not Move Back

We’ve all heard the infamous bus driver cry: “Move back please!” If the driver sees people standing up next to him he will assume that the bus is full up and not stop to let poor souls who have been waiting forever on the bus stop. Therefore, if you’re standing up, please go as far back as you can. It’s only right.

The One Who Is Chatty

After a long day on campus or after work, the last thing I feel like is making small talk with someone I haven’t seen for eight odd years. As an avoidance tactic, a book or an mp3 usually works. Yet, every so often despite these obvious barriers, I find myself making small talk on the bus. Also under this category, are people whom you don’t know from Adam, yet feel that it is perfectly acceptable to engage in deep conversation about excessive taxes or the weather. Please don’t: respect other people’s privacy.

The One On The Phone

If it’s early morning, the bus will be (thankfully) quiet. Then a particularly cringe worthy ringtone goes off and someone decides to share their conversation with the rest of the select population on the bus. Remember: if no-one is talking, everyone is listening. Keep your voice down and your conversations private.

The One Who Will Not Get Up For The Elderly

It’s rule number one for people with good manners – even Enid Blyton mentions it once or twice in her books. If you see elderly people standing up on the bus, give them your seat. It will make you feel really good inside and you’ll have done your good deed of the week.

The One Who Insists On Fresh Air

I understand that it is flu season and people are afraid of catching a cold from someone who might be sick on the bus. However, I fail to see the necessity of a wide open window in the middle of January. Just because it’s not raining doesn’t mean people aren’t freezing their toes off!

Related articles: Maltabuses & how to use them (routes, fares info etc)

Photo: Walter Lo Cascio

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There are a lot of steps to climb if you want to import a car into Malta!

This is probably one of the most difficult topics we’ve covered. We can only guide you, provide some personal insights and give you a feeling for what’s involved. We’ll be building on this article, adding to the body of links here. Your insights will be invaluable too.

Basic background
If you are foreign and importing a car into Malta to drive it here beyond the six months deemed permissible as a ‘tourist’ stay, then you will have to pay a vehicle registration tax (though may be eligible for an exemption). If you have a Maltese ID card, you will not be able to drive the car beyond the ferry and home, if that, without having it licensed here. With Maltese ID, you cannot claim to be a tourist visiting.

Vehicle Registration Tax
Malta has among the highest registration taxes for most types of vehicles. Some concessions were made in the 2008 budget, effective from 1 January 2009, that reduced the tax on some small- and medium-sized vehicles but increased them for larger ones. The new system was introduced to encourage us to purchase/import more environmentally-friendly cars so the calculations involve the registered value (RV), car length, carbon dioxide emission volumes and particulate matter volumes (diesel only). Also, under the new system comes a useful exemption – private individuals relocating to Malta will be able to bring in a car they’ve owned for two or more years without having to pay vehicle registration tax here. This exemption is limited to one vehicle per person relocating.

Of key interest to those bringing a car into Malta is the Registration Value (RV). The old system depended on a valuation carried out by the Malta Transport Authority and was a somewhat haphazard affair I’ve heard. But now, to quote the official document: “As of 1st January 2009, the valuation system [is] replaced with a new system which will take into account the depreciation rate (and residual value) of a similar vehicle in Malta, and [is] available online. The system [allows] the user to calculate the tax that would be due if the vehicle were to be registered.”

Vehicle registation tax rates have long been a contentious issue, among both local Maltese and incoming residents – the latter often left facing a nasty tax shock when their six months’ temporary vehicle permit (tourist stay period on the vehicle) is up! It can still be the case, when the RV calculations are done, that you face car registration taxes that are higher than the real value of the car. But, since used car prices hold up in Malta (see photo above for how we keep our cars going!), you might end up selling it here and not losing out too much in the long run, depending on vehicle type and its demand.

If you do end up driving a car with foreign plates for several months here, but within your six-month, temporary permit period (which you should get earlier rather than later in your stay!), you might be pulled over by ADT (Malta Transport Authority) officials doing road-side, spot checks. They can be officious. Know your rights – click here for some advice on how to deal with this.

Procedures
These are quite long and complicated and we’ve some links to help get you through them.
ADT site ‘Registration, Tax & Documentation‘ page gives you a blow by blow list of the procedures and what paperwork you’ll need.
The Malta Chamber for SMEs – the GRTU – has an unofficial guide that makes for an interesting read, and mirrors the official one step by step.
British Expat Forum – Malta has lots of Q&A threads that are worth spending an hour drilling through.

Official Links:
The ADT is the Malta Transport Authority. Its site has downloadable forms and details of the various, possibly useful, tax exemptions such as for overseas’ students or people taking up fixed-term, contract work in Malta who wish to bring their own car in with them for their stay.
http://www.maltatransport.com/en/

http://www.valuation.vehicleregistration.gov.mt/Car.aspx This is a quick, online calculator of the RV you can expect to pay.

Expat Insights
If expats have friends already here, they know the ropes and often opt to hire or buy in situ in Malta. Average hire car rates, for a family car (Ford Focus) on long-term hire, can be around €10/day.

Here’s one car import tale:
“Bringing the car in was fairly easy as you are given a 6 month visitor’s permit. However, the hassle started once this permit ran out. We were being asked to pay massive duty on the car (I think it was about 60% of the total car value) to get Maltese registration or send it back to the UK. Finally, after many meetings and heated discussions my husband ended up meeting both the finance and transport ministers (eds. note: Malta is small, and if your business has clout or you have connections, it’s possible!….) to get them to agree on an exemption for cars of incoming foreign staff at our firm. This meant we only had to pay a comparatively small fee to get it registered. The ADT seem to have clamped down significantly on foreign cars. Our main issues were: (1) duties and (2) the whole minefield of a procedure for getting the car registered.

Would I do it again? Maybe if laws on duty were relaxed – but at the time? No! It was major hassle and meant we couldn’t drive the car for months on end once the permit had expired. One guy I know in the same firm had his car seized and was told: either pay the duty or put the car on the next ferry out of Malta.

Another person’s experience…
We now have some kind of deal on vehicle registration tax because we have had the car more than 2 yrs and therefore fulfilled another criteria. We paid around €300 to get it registered with ADT, BUT they have our UK plates and logbook – which basically means we can’t sell the car here. Unless of course we pay the import duty, which seems to be assessed also, unofficial word has it, on the state of your car; if it looks a bit bashed up, you are more likely to get a lower rate!”

Photo: Gethin Thomas

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In the Stands at Malta vs Sweden. As an expat, you're more likely to be playing sport yourself than watching it among the locals.

At Maltainsideout, we get a lot of correspondence from people thinking of moving to Malta, and who want to know not just about the specifics (cost of living, schools and so on) but also simply ‘what it’s like’, day to day. This is always hard to answer in brief, but here, Andy May gives the family man’s viewpoint. If men are on corporate moves to Malta, they often have a ready-made routine waiting for them, but it doesn’t mean they don’t worry about how trailing wives and kids will get on. Every family member’s welfare counts if a new working life in Malta is going to work out.

Andy’s view…

Telling your family you’re all moving to a new country is certainly not one of the easiest things to do in life. Playing the bad guy is not a role I enjoy and to see the tears in the eyes of my 10-year old son and his seven-year-old sister as we said goodbye to our friends and headed over to Malta is something I will always remember.

Kids are fairly resilient and easily bribed with a nice house with a swimming pool and a few days at the beach. Once into a routine, everyone soon settled down into Malta life and as a family we began to enjoy the experience. We do more family stuff than we ever did in the UK, we spend more time outside and we can now afford to give the kids all the after school interests they want such as private tennis, music and dancing lessons.

As for me, moving to Malta has made a massive difference to my quality of life – a two-hour daily commute into London has been swapped for a short cycle ride to work. I work in a medium-sized office with a friendly group of people many of whom find themselves in a similar position to us so there is a real feeling of team spirit and ‘being in it together’ which is a refreshing change from the impersonal business relationships with the hundreds of work colleagues back in the main London office.

The ‘work hard, play hard’ phrase gets overused but I can honestly say it’s a winning formula and is one which we adopt in our Malta office. Outside of work the families of work colleagues tend to socialise together; the guys play sport together at weekends, and the mums and kids get together when we are out at work. It takes time to integrate into the wider community, so having a ready-made social group from day one was a real help.

Given the doom and gloom of the recession, which seems more acute in UK than it does in Malta, I’m in no rush to go home just yet. A crumbling economy, high levels of unemployment and the highest tax rates in Europe make the UK a fairly unattractive option right now. I’ll happily sit out the recession in the sunshine of Malta with a nice cold Cisk beer in hand!

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Rainy days and Mondays, perhaps not the best days to tout for rides.

Manoeuvering Maltese roads is bad enough. Our driving skills come close to those of our Italian and Arab neighbours. But what’s even worse is being stuck in a Maltese rush hour jam near Valletta in the vicinity of a karozzin.

Yesterday morning the juxtaposition of old and new rankled. A karozzin driver gabbling into an iPhone, yanking the lead on the horse with his free hand, creates a domino effect of crazy manoeuvres by irate cars with dents, their occupants half-gawping, half running over the entrepreneur and his beast.

I have yet to meet a local who has owned up to having been in a karozzin when sober. In Malta, karozzin drivers’ street cred is almost at a par with our ‘allegedly’ rude bus drivers. It’s a reputation that has been built over some fifty years’ of tourism. Go to Valletta, Mdina, or Rabat, in Gozo, and you will find some naive tourist trying to negotiate a way out of being almost press-ganged into ‘having a ride with the cabbie’ or a ‘tour round the harbour’ or whatever comes out of the cabbies’ mouths. Poet-laureates these guys aren’t. They’re safeguarded as a component of Malta’s tourism, and yet they’re often seen hassling tourists or anyone with fair hair; their horses generally look world weary; and their ‘guiding capabilities’ leave much to be desired from the snippets you hear as they trundle by.

I don’t want to stereotype and tar them all with the same brush. I know every country has its ‘tourism’ artefacts, its ‘living souvenirs’. As far as I’m concerned, there’s nothing quaint about the karozzin. Vienna has its Fiakr – open horse-drawn carriages – that are polished to the hilt and driven by well-turned out men in uniform. A totally different experience, if costly (but our equivalent can be too). Fiakr can pass being described as ‘romantic’; a word that hardly trips off the tongue in relation to Malta’s karozzin, although I know many wedding organisers do add karozzin to the list of bride and groom transport.

So what makes tourists jump into a karozzin in Malta, get fleeced, and then return home to flood Flickr with their pictures?

Or have I got this all wrong?

Photo: courtesy of Kevin Archaeo

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