Is there anyone over 16 here?

Love it, hate it, wait eagerly to go there weekends, or wince at the thought of it, all Malta has a reaction to Paceville (pronounced ‘parch-i-ville’). Routinely billed as the heart of Malta’s nightlife, it’s either the place to be seen or a place to avoid, depending largely on your age and taste in night life. It has everything from clubs to gentlemen’s clubs and a casino, and an atmosphere ranging from tacky to cool. The four ‘s’ words are probably what most people of certain ages go looking for or chance across if they aren’t.

In these last weeks of peak summer 2011, we reflect on what this season has added to Paceville’s reputation. The past week alone has seen a flurry of news reports ranging from those detailing the latest incidents of violent behaviour on Paceville’s streets to businesses’ calls for a new structure – a ‘Paceville Agency‘ – to deal with the areas’ ills.

Somewhat in the minority are other voices complaining Malta is painting too black a picture of its top nightlife area.   Not good for tourism, they say.  I feel they do have a point there as many businesses in Paceville work hard to run a tight ship.  But most of us here in Malta are quite aware there’s a gaping void between glossy brochure speak and the reality of Paceville.

The area has enjoyed a meteroic rise to infamy this summer. Though some commentators say it was actually worse 30 years ago.  It’s a shame because there are good many excellent restaurants tucked away down its side streets which could attract more business. It has a Blue Flag beach and picturesque bays on its fringes too. But I know a lot of locals who simply won’t go near the area from May to September.

Older people (and we’re talking perhaps of 30 plus only here) say it’s full of teens.  Even by age 21, some locals have had it with Paceville (locally known as ‘PV’).  Here’s what Charlie (21) says about why people go to PV:

1. to get wasted.

2. to meet the same people over and over again. No interesting conversations take place there.. just useless, drunken chat.

3. to pull anything of the opposite sex,

4. because ‘there is nothing better to do’.

5. the weekend shows up and people simply feel like clubbing. There are still many who love the place because of that.

(Afterthought): It’s still very cheap to go out (especially if you’re a girl). There are no entrance fees to many of the clubs. It’s drawing ever younger people in: 14 year-olds go there supposedly accompanying their elder siblings.. and end up getting wasted themselves. By the time you get to 21, you’ve done it all and want to move on. Also, if you’ve done any serious travel yourself, you know that there is life beyond Paceville.

Verdict? Go there understanding what Paceville is, and you won’t be disappointed.

What and where is Paceville?

It’s a compact, urban peninsula between St George’s Bay and Spinola Bay and facing the inland residential area of Swieqi. It also has a large number of five-star hotels on its fringes. The St George’s Bay (newly-made) beach is considered Paceville’s local beach. Paceville life centres on Dragonara Road, Wilga Street, St. Georges Road and St. Rita Steps where clubs, bars, restaurants, snack outlets, discos and more spill out into paved streets. It isn’t that attractive a place by day, but at night, it’s like Malta’s mini version of London’s Soho, Leicester Square and Piccadilly Circus – loud, brash and in your face.

Facilities: police are present and increasing in numbers; taxi ranks in main square; Wembley’s, a well-known taxi & mini-bus firm, is just five minutes walk from central Paceville. Minibus services to most outlying towns and villages operate till the early hours. Taxi sharing also possible.

How to get there or more importantly, back:

Arriva runs a lot of night buses from St Julian’s.  Click here for the list of routes and times.  There’s some park and ride services too, which make life a bit easier if you’re driving.

Photo: Courtesy of Spacing Magazine. 

Paceville anyone? No? Then what better than vino and friends in Malta's growing number of wine bars

Ever since Facebook became a part of our lives, it has become our primary source of reference to what to do on a Friday or Saturday night out. This, along with copious SMS adverts, radio spots, and the word on the ground in the Maltese social scene, generally point to the best night outs being at bigger, more advertised social events.

Most people will often go to a certain club or bar just because ‘people’ are going (i.e. acquaintances within the same social circle who you would walk past on the street but who, on the other hand, could contribute to a good ‘night out’ out given their ‘attending’ status indicated on Facebook). Of course, there could be other motives that draw crowds to a particular place, such as cheap drinks and more often than not, cheesy radio-friendly music. Not your thing? Then find out…

What do the rest of us do?
If you take a look around, there are loads of different events that contribute to a good, if not better, night out. The popularity of such events isn’t necessarily assessed by the people who attend, but by the level of satisfaction attained by the people that do actually attend.

Let’s face it, Malta is small, so if you look hard enough you’re bound to find something that although unappealing to the general public, is ten times as fun. Here are some clues and tips on what to look for…

First of all, look as far away as possible from Paceville.
If you don’t want to waste your Friday/Saturday night looking for parking or faced by throngs of teenagers binge-drinking on streets, Paceville is definitely not the place for you. A walk through the streets of Valletta, for instance, will uncover quite a number of quaint little spots advertising jazz nights or acoustic gigs.

For the older crowd, the last few years has seen the surge of quite a few wine bars in Malta, often found in Valletta, or in ‘faraway’ old towns; some of the most popular are in Mdina, Balzan, Attard and Birgu, and are venues for a good night whether you’re spending it with a few friends over a few bottles of wine with accompanying cheese and meat platters, or as a quick getaway with your loved one.

For a younger crowd that have still not tucked away their dancing shoes but can’t face the commercialism found in major bars in Paceville, there are plenty of alternatives. Summer months give non-Paceville goers plenty of options, although in winter you may have to look around a bit and be in the know about gigs. However, whether it’s reggae, electronic music, or techno that you like to follow, there are people out there who strive to make it happen. Whether you prefer donning your mum’s hippie clothes for a reggae party to covering your face in face paint for a rave somewhere remote, there’s something out there for everyone.

And what’s more, Maltese people can make good music. There are plenty of live gigs every weekend. Even though the more popular bands are the ones the general public often talks about (Winter Moods, Ira Losco etc), there are other small bands and acts out there that are just as good, often playing in smaller bars setting the backdrop for a more intimate setting.

A good point of reference, as much as we love to hate it, always remains Facebook. Do your research well, add a few influential people, and you’ve a recipe for fun to guide you through the ‘colder’ Maltese nights.

Photo: Therese Debono