Fort St Angelo - its valiant defence of Malta the reason Birgu is called Citta' Vittoriosa

Birgu to the Maltese, and Vittoriosa to others; to my mind the most beautiful and perfectly preserved of the Three Cities which front Grand Harbour. The city was built by the Knights of St John on a peninsula, with proud Fort St Angelo at its tip, during the early- to mid-Sixteenth Century. After the Great Siege (1565) and the building of Valletta (from 1566 onwards) Birgu’s importance diminished and the Knights moved over the water to take up residence in their new purpose-built fortress city defended by huge bastions and star-shaped Fort St Elmo.

Birgu’s ancient auberges and gracious houses stood largely unchanged until the Second World War when the relentless bombing by the Luftwaffe of the Allied Fleet moored in Dockyard Creek did huge damage to this lovely old city. The tall clock tower that once stood in the main square was hit; the Auberge of Italy was flattened and many other buildings were swept away by the air raids of 1942.

So what is left to see of the city that the Knights of St John built?

The massive bastions and ditches which surround the city remain intact and in the quiet streets of the Colacchio where the Knights lived, you are surrounded by buildings representing several hundred years of architectural history.

In Hilda Tabone Street which leads off the main square there are the Auberges of Provence, Auvergne, France and Aragon (the palaces that quartered the various langues of the Knights). These narrow streets are slowly being restored and the ugly metal-framed windows which destroy the symmetry and proportions of the buildings removed.

Some buildings have been restored and used for the good of the community. For example, the Auberge of England is now the public library. The Inquisitor’s Palace is also open to the public. There is the Maritime Museum in the old Bakery on the Waterfront and exhibitions about the Knights. You can visit also the tunnels and shelters near the Main Gate which were dug during the Second World War and are now open to visitors. The museum there recalls the hardships suffered by residents of the Three Cities during the Malta Blitz.

Post-War neglect of the area and the Maltese prejudice against the Three Cities and their inhabitants means that only recently have the beautiful houses been restored and converted.

Birgu Council is encouraging the inhabitants to be proud of their city and organises many cultural activities to draw visitors to the area. Events such as Birgufest, including an evening of Birgu by Candlelight, and the Feasts of St Lawrence and St Dominic attract as many Maltese residents as tourists and allow people to enjoy the feast for the senses that Birgu offers.

It is pleasure to see that every street and alley is decorated by shrubs and flowers in pots and, amazingly, no one steals them as they might in another locality. It adds to the pleasant ambience as you wander the narrow streets. Cafes and restaurants in the main square, on the Waterfront and in quiet shadowy streets encourage one to linger and savour the atmosphere of this historic city. Spend time watching the small ferry boats (dhajjes) departing for their tours of Grand Harbour or ferrying people across to Valletta, and enjoy a coffee by the marina as you gaze across to Senglea or Kalkara on the other side. A timeless view of tranquility.

Photo: courtesy of Leslie Vella

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Soul searching in an Easter passion play at the Carmelite Priory, Mdina

The Carmelite Priory Museum in Mdina, a relatively recent, private museum for Malta, with a ‘pretty nice cafe’ attached, has been using its heritage assets well. Its museum, shop and eatery aside, the Priory is making the most of its vast buildings, spacious corridors, airy courtyard and church as a backdrop to arts and cultural events. It holds regular Wednesday and Saturday lunchtime concerts in its refectory, which make an ideal excuse to escape the busy tourist street outside.

At Easter, the priory is the venue for a passion play with a twist – ‘Is it Me?’ – adapted and directed by the Priory’s manager, Marc Cabourdin, who you’ll usually find overseeing the Old Priory Cafe.

Why a play and why now? Marc explains: “This is the first time we’ve taken such an initiative at the Priory. Easter is a time when many paegants are put up in Malta but most focus upon the sufferings of Jesus. ‘Is It Me?’ is different as it places strong emphasis on the originality of Jesus’s teachings with their underlying message of the importance of love as the centre of all human experience. The radicality of Jesus’s preaching is what led to him being ostracised and to him being accused of blasphemy and then executed. The plot also focuses upon his interaction with the people and gives deeper insight into the roles of Pontius Pilate and Caiaphas.”

Earlier in life, Marc spent four years in London as an actor and reading for an MA in acting and theatre, so it’s little wonder that the Priory is taking this turn.

Without giving the play away….”Is it me?”, is an adaptation of the well-known Easter play “Son of Man”, by Dennis Potter, which was originally produced by the BBC for television. It lets you see the choices that had to be made for those events which changed the face of history. The Priory’s adaptation is very much a team effort of all the cast.

Cast: Steffan Cherriet Busuttil, Tyron Grima, Jean Pierre Agius, Joanna Caruana, Justin Fenech, Keith Pavia, David Chircop, and Wesley Ellul.

Further info:
Dates: March 27 – 29, at 20.00.
Time: 8:00pm.
Admission: €10.00, concessions €8.00.
Venue phone: +356 27020404.
email: info@carmelitepriorymuseum.com
Site: www.carmelitepriorymuseum.com

Photo: courtesy of the Priory. Stefan Cheriet Busuttil in the role of Jesus.

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Wignacourt Tower, as it was c.1863 (before the buildings and the road encroached!)

At some point on a visit to Malta, you’re bound to spot a coastal defence tower dating from the time of the Knights of St John. Summer visitors reclining on Ghajn Tuffieha or Golden Bay beaches will see one rising on the rocky peninsula between the bays. Another easy-to-spot tower acts as a cafe on the Sliema to St Julian’s seafront.

Until recently, I’d never visited one. But my son’s fascination for these ‘mini-castles’ as he put it meant we ended up twice at the Wignacourt Tower in St Paul’s Bay within as many weeks. Amazingly, given the tower’s small, squat shape, we spent a good hour or more over the detailed displays of maps, texts and models and enjoyed a very thorough guided talk.

Malta’s national trust, Din l’Art-Helwa, runs Wignacourt Tower and last month, February 2010, it celebrated the 400th anniversary of the laying of the foundation stone of the tower. It also marked the 34th anniversary of the restoration on the tower by Din l-Art Helwa.

Victor Rizzo, the treasurer of the organisation, talks here about Wignacourt, Malta’s oldest surviving coastal tower.

Wignacourt Tower

The first coastal tower constructed by the Knights was built overlooking Mgarr harbour in Gozo in 1605 and named Garzes Tower after Grand Master Fra Martin Garzes who left personal funds in his will for the building of this tower.

In order to increase the coastal defences of the Maltese Islands, Grand Master Wignacourt, offered to build more towers at his own expense. The first tower was constructed in St Paul’s Bay and the Grand Master personally attended for the blessing of the foundation stone on 10 February, 1610. The tower was rightly named after the Grand Master. Its design is attributed to the Maltese architect Vittorio Cassar.

As Garzes Tower was demolished by the British in the 19th century, it leaves Wignacourt Tower as the oldest surviving coastal defence post on the Maltese Islands.

Layout & Living Quarters
The original entrance to Wignacourt Tower was through a stone staircase which led to the upper floor; from here, occupants would have to use a rope or ladder to descend to the floor below (today’s entrance at road level). Though the staircase was eventually removed to make way for the road, the original arched entrance and door still remain. The present main entrance on the ground floor is, unfortunately, not the original.

The soldier in charge of the defence of the tower lived on the upper floor. He had his bed, a place for a fire with a ventilation shaft, a toilet, and a well for fresh water. Timber holes in the walls suggest the existence of a secondary wooden floor, supported on beams, intended to provide sleeping quarters. The lower floor was accessible through a trap door and used for storage. A spiral staircase is now in place for visitors.

The Tower in Action
The garrison of Wignacourt Tower, which was commanded by a master bombardier, kept watch for signs of approaching enemy ships. In 1614, only four years after construction, a strong attack by a Turkish fleet was launched. It seems that at the sight of the tower, the fleet entered through Mellieha which was not defended until the building of the Red Fort in 1649.

In 1715, a coastal battery was added to the tower to increase its fire power. The armaments throughout most of the 18th century consisted of two 6-pounder iron cannon, similar to the one deployed on the roof, and three 18-pounder iron cannon placed on the battery at the foot of the tower on its seaward side.

In the 19th century, the tower was used as a police station and as a telegraph post. In 1970, the Lands Department leased the tower to Din l-Art Helwa after a call in the Government Gazette. The restoration was inaugurated on 10 February 1976.

The Tower as a Museum today
The tower now houses a small museum. In 1998, an exhibition of models of fortifications around Malta, set up by Dr. Stephen Spiteri (now Superintendent of Fortifications) was opened. The upper floor houses reproductions of items to show how the occupants of the tower used to live and the armaments they used. In the roof turrets some old photos of the tower are exhibited together with other pictures related to Grand Master Wignacourt and his times. On the roof, is a restored cannon.

Visitor Information
The tower is open to visitors from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 till noon for a small fee of €2. For further information, see the Din l’Art-Helwa website.

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Despite the ravages of time and war, Bir Miftuh is immaculately preserved today

Din l-Art Helwa is an NGO founded in 1965 to safeguard the historic, artistic and natural heritage of Malta. Here, Victor Rizzo, the treasurer of the organisation, kicks off a series about the key cultural heritage properties managed by the organisation in Malta, Gozo and Comino which are open to the public. This piece is about the ancient chapel of Bir Miftuh, which stands opposite Malta International Airport. Glance right as you exit MIA to catch a glimpse of it.

The Chapel of Santa Maria ta’ Bir Miftuh is an outstanding example of medieval architecture. Built almost 600 years ago, it saw the arrival of the Knights, was desecrated by the Turks during the Great Siege of 1565 and suffered bomb damage in the Second World War. Located in Gudja, it is one of the best preserved examples of a parish church of the 15th century. It was declared a parish in 1436 by Bishop Senatore de Mello and served as such until 1676 when the Parish Church of Gudja was built. It was never in the centre of a village but was had parish church status and served several villages.

The chapel is free standing and shows a growing confidence in the handling of stone structures. It is simple and austere in design, with fine pointed stone arches on which rest the long stone roof slabs. It has a plain rectangular plan and measures about 11 by 14 metres.

The chapel was originally larger and built in the shape of a cross. In the 16th century the rear end of the chapel was demolished and the stones were used in the construction of the present parish church of Gudja. An imposing belfry, a 16th century addition, perches proudly over the main doorway. No bells are in place. Legend has it that these bells were hastily buried in the soil during the Great Siege of 1565. They are still waiting to be discovered.

The altar was brought from another chapel and dates from the 16th century. The altar painting is on wood and probably belongs to the second half of the same century and depicts the figure of God holding a Crucifix surrounded by angels at the top of the panel. The lower part shows a hilly landscape with the Virgin and Child on clouds flanked by St Peter and St Paul.

Over the centuries the chapel suffered from neglect and lack of use. It was close to total collapse until the Ecclesiastical Authorities gave the chapel to Din l-Art Helwa in Trust in 1970. Restoration started in 1973 and was generously sponsored by Malta International Airport, which continues to support it to this day.

During restoration, the remains of a fresco covering the wall facing the altar were discovered under thick layers of lime. The fresco depicts the Last Judgment and is divided into three tiers of figures. The upper tier shows the Apostles and Mary with the figure of Christ in the centre. The figures below this tier represent Mary, a hand holding a sword representing St Paul, St James and St Andrew, St Lawrence, St Benedict holding a church model, Peter the Martyr, and possibly St Catherine holding the palm of martyrdom. The figures above this tier show a kneeling saint representing St John the Baptist, four unknown female saints, St Ursula holding a pike-staff and St Barbara holding a model of a round tower.

The second tier shows the damned being led away to the fiery pits of hell by demons with horns, tails and webbed feet. On the left side one can make out the wing of an angel and the back of one of the faithful being drawn towards God and the Virgin Mary.

The lower tier probably depicts the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. On the north wall, in the first bay, there is a picture of a woman, in a costume fashionable in the 16th century, holding a lily in one hand and pointing to the main altar painting with the other.

The frescoes were expertly restored and regular inspections are carried out. Further restoration involved the repair of all walls and a leaking roof. The floor laid in 1942 was replaced with globigerina limestone flagstones, and the exterior areas adjacent to the walls were paved. In 2004, restoration of the churchyard at the back of the chapel was completed.

The Chapel is an ideal setting for the Bir Miftuh International Music Festival held regularly in the Summer by Din l-Art Helwa since 1997. It is open for visitors the first Sunday of the month from 9.30 till noon.

For more details on Din l-Art Helwa, see the website or e-mail info@dinlarthelwa.org

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Gruelling stuff eating satchel. Rather him than me!

The Maritime Museum in Birgu is holding a ‘Life at Sea’ themed event all day this Sunday, 31 January. This is definitely one for the kids on what looks like being a showery weekend.

If my seven-year-old is anything to go by, a lot of children in Malta are fascinated by the islands’ maritime history especially the legends of Babary pirates and Corsairs. Not to mention the galleons of the Knights, who washed up here after floating around homeless in the Mediterranean for a few years. Then there are Lord Nelson and the British Navy’s Mediterranean fleet, which was to go on to use Malta as a strategic naval base for almost two centuries. Trade, piracy and war dominate throughout the centuries – and the latter two tend to grab kids’ attention.

The day covers the 16th – 19th centuries, so the colourful eras when life at sea was hardship, weevils, stew made from cooked leather satchels and two or more to a very small bunk. Apparently, the day is focusing on ‘food and beverages consumed at the time’, but let’s hope we don’t get the Real McCoy served up!

The Museum
I’ve always felt the Maritime Museum in Birgu to be one of the best suited to adult and kids’ excursion. Located in the old British naval bakery and right by the creeks and docks of Grand Habour, it is a wonderful location to visit in itself.

The museum’s vast, well-laid out collection ranges over three floors. It takes you from the time of the Phoenicians to the end of the British naval bases in Malta. Its permanent collection doesn’t have hands-on kids’ activities as such, but it does have a lot to feast your eyes on – amazing model boats, a mock-up of a typical, harbour-side bar that British sailors would have used, uniforms, memorabilia, letters from kings, queens and Admirals, medals and a huge engine room devoted to the Anadrian, a steam-driven grab dredger built in 1951 for Malta by a Glaswegian firm. If visiting kids are reading age, then they’ll enjoy deciphering scrawled handwriting of official letters and documents, and peering at fading photos.

The Life at Sea Event includes:
Firing of cannon and muskets, and military drills.
The opportunity to eat typical Maltese food associated with life at sea and cooked as documented in recipes at the time.
Screening of footage of underwater wrecks
The chance to chat with Malta’s Maritime Squadron
Restoration in action – seeing maintenance works on an old boat.
Boat-model building demonstrations
Face painting so children to look like Corsairs!

Info:
Date: Sunday 31st January
Venue: Malta Maritime Museum in Vittoriosa
Time: 09.00am and 5.00pm.
Tickets can be bought on site at the price of €5.00 for adults, €3.00 for senior citizens and students. The reduced rate of €2.00 applies for Heritage Malta members, AFM employees, members of The Friends of the Maritime Museum and Dockyard workers. Entrance will be free for children under 16.

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Let the conversation flow (along with a little wine). Food, Wine, Art lectures at Palazzo Falson.

Note: We’ve been informed that these lectures won’t be taking place as Prof. Variana is unable to come over to Malta for now. We’ll keep you posted when they’re rescheduled.

Not all culture comes at a price as February’s series of free lectures at Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum in Mdina proves. What’s more, these particular talks have an added bonus – they come complete with free tastings of wine, Renaissance cookbook-inspired foods and extra virgin locally pressed olive oils.

What an enlightened trio of cultural pursuits. The lectures are a winning formula for getting us to appreciate an historic venue and learn something new, and also an ingenious way of the museum marrying its collection with some complementary, lively events.

The Food, Wine & Art lecture programme
Palazzo Falson has invited a visiting art historian, Prof. John Varriano, to give two, two-hour lectures on food, wine & art, each one covering two distinct themes. The sessions (including tastings) are completely free of charge, but booking is essential to secure a place (and we advise you book fast as seats are limited). To book, tel: +356 2145 4512 or +356 2145 1021, or email: info@palazzofalson.com.

Friday 12th February (1400-1600hrs):
1. “Wine and Health, Wine and Death” first discusses the presumed therapeutic benefits of wine as brought down to us through the ages, and goes on to examine its changing metaphorical associations with memento mori, or images of death, in ancient and Early Modern times.

Wine Tasting & sampling of food inspired by Renaissance cookbooks (researched and prepared by Matty Cremona). Sponsored by Marsovin and Wardija Extra Virgin.

2. “Erotic Appetites” focuses on paintings of food that embody two genres of Renaissance allusion, the first exploiting the sexually suggestive shapes of certain fruits and vegetables, and the second linking the eating habits of the different social classes to stereotypical notions of sexuality and procreative success.

Saturday 20th February (1030-1230hrs):
1. “Eggs, Butter, Lard, and Oil” traces the evolution of the binders used in Renaissance art and cuisine, noting the importance of oil in particular for the signature characteristics of both cultural expressions.

Oil Tasting & sampling of food inspired by Renaissance cookbooks (researched and prepared by Matty Cremona). Sponsored by Wardija Extra Virgin and Marsovin.

2. “Edible Art” introduces the art of trionfi da tavola, edible table decorations that routinely embellished Renaissance and Baroque banquets.

Prof. John Varriano taught Art History at Mount Holyoke College in Massachusetts from 1970, until his retirement in June, 2009. He is a specialist in the art of the Italian Renaissance and Baroque periods in Italy, and the author of five books and more than four dozen articles. His latest interests combine the history of art with the history of gastronomy.

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Kiosk Kitsch - American diner style. Just one of the wonders of this walk.

If you mention Qawra, Bugibba and St Paul’s Bay all in the same breath to a local, it’s likely to trigger the same emotions as mentioning ‘Bognor’ to someone from Britain. That is, images of a slightly tawdry traditional seaside town that’s seen better days.

These northern resort towns in Malta are largely the domain of British tourists, and the Maltese traders here – from hoteliers to street hawkers – tend to offer up goods and services that will look very familiar to any British person. One hoarding today advertising a snack bar had the words ‘chip butty’ on it. I am not sure continental visitors – and there were some Germans and Italians walking the front today – would know what that is.

But in winter, the couple of kms walk are largely reclaimed by the Maltese – you’ll see sporty, Lycra-clad power walkers, joggers, and lots of families with pull-along sit-on toys, bikes with outriders and buggies just about making it to McDonald’s. Here, an outdoor play area can work out any extra energy the kids have left (though the Golden Arches has removed the much-loved castle replacing it with a ‘gym’ that seems only open when animation is on hand).

There are plenty of things to amuse you (and any kids) on the way. Kiosks take pride of place, underlying the Maltese propensity to never be far away from refreshments.  Many of them are open on a Sunday walk, serving anything from hot and cold drinks to meals.  They also provide shelter from the wind, and rest for tired legs. Here are some other highlights en route:

1. Planets for the kids
The Malta Astronomical Society has devised a ‘planet walk’ with scale models of our solar system along the Qawra to Bugibba stretch. Kids love rotating the planets and reading the info on them, and racing to find the next one!

2. Views of St Paul’s islands
Don’t look landward (at the architectural mishaps dating from the ’60s – ’80s), look seaward. This front has some of the most interesting views of any paved stretch of coastline. Natural, rugged parts, St Paul’s Island with its statue, Selmum palace on the ridge across the bay, and so on. Just before the Wignacourt Tower are mounted binoculars (50c to view) with narration (choose from around five languages) about St Paul’s Island. It’s called, apparently, ‘religious tourism’ by the Malta Tourism Authority.

3. Spray & Wind
This side of Malta tends to get the prevailing winds in winter, so even when you’re well back from the sea, the wind blasts the spray your way. As you round the Bugibba bay area, expect to get wet if the wind is very strong! It’s exhilerating though, and a great New Year’s walk.

4. Name & Sign spotting
In the built-up stretch in Bugibba, enjoy spotting weird shop names on establishments, open all hours and days, selling various souvenirs, jewellery, papers and unclassifiable goods. Bars, kiosks and restaurants have great names too. A particularly amusing sign post indicates that ‘horse bathing’ is not permissible here. Anyone seen this road sign in another country, I wonder?

5. Wacky street furniture & public loos
As you round corner on the last part towards Wignacourt Tower, the seafront takes on a more contemporary feel in its lighting and in the ship’s bow design of the concrete stairway to the higher road. We’ve changed local council district here, and it shows! In the same style is the latest in public toilets right by Sirens’ Waterpolo pitch and restaurant-bar. These have to be the ultimate in public conveniences in Malta, so use them before the graffiti takes hold.

6. Wignacourt Tower
A perfect end to the walk, this stocky watch tower was built by order of Grand Master Olof de Wignacourt in 1610 and is the oldest surviving one in Malta. It is run by Malta’s National Trust, Din l- Art-Helwa (this fair land, in literal translation). Trust volunteers open it most days, but do check the website for full details of opening times. The Sunday we were there, the man in charge was exceptionally knowledgeable and gave our group a comprehensive guided tour of this small, but charming heritage site. His talk covered the entire history of the Knights in Malta plus copious details about their fortifications and defences.

Photo: Alex Grech

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Sending a message from the past: British postbox in Malta:

Earlier this year, an old RAF colleague of my father turned 80. To mark his birthday, he came to Malta on a trip down memory lane to visit places he’d not seen for well over 50 years. He was stationed here in the early 1950s for three years. He showed me some sepia photos of himself among colleagues – groups of tanned young men, diving off rocks, ladding around somewhere in Sliema, or was it near Delimara? John tried to recall the Malta he knew – with the contours so changed, it was hard to decipher where the photos were shot.

Quite a bit of British tourism to Malta is still fuelled by people keen to recall their past stationed here, from World War II onwards until the last naval bases closed and the British forces left in 1979. Many, like John, are increasingly frail, but want to get around to see as much as they can. To help them and anyone else interested in exploring Malta’s 160 years of British rule, we’ve listed the main places and museums that recall this past; as well as note the British-influence on current-day Maltese life, from language to driving on the left. For a potted history of Malta under British rule, click here.

Most places are accessible by public transport. Though, to find the exact piece of rocky beach where John swam, I had to chauffeur drive, slowly, and scour rock faces for etched names, eroded and lost to time. But we think we got the spot – by today’s Exiles beach club, Sliema!

British influence today
There’s a strong affinity between the Maltese and the British. It’s an easy place for Brits to visit, what with English a joint official language and widely spoken, driving on the left, cups of tea with lots of milk, and familiar names around – from shop fronts to street names. Battered old vehicles still on our roads, like Bedford vans, Ford Anglias and Triumphs, can take you back to ’50s – 70s Britain in a flash. Then there are red post boxes (good examples in Valletta and on the Sliema front) and red telephone boxes (again, in Valletta) which are often more common there than on British streets.

Museums with British or wartime exhibits
National War Museum, Fort St Elmo, Valletta: the place to start as it focuses on the two World Wars. Displays the George Cross awarded by King George VI to Malta for the islands’ bravery in WWII.
National Maritime Museum, Birgu Waterfront: This vast museum housed in the old British naval bakery traces Malta’s sea-faring history from Phoenician times to WWII and beyond. Mock-up of a naval waterfront bar, uniforms, navy photographs, letters and memoribilia galore.
Malta at War Museum, Birgu: this new museum, housed in 18th century barracks, tells of the daily hardship and suffering of the islanders during WWII.
Aviation Museum, Ta’ Qali: a veritable treasure trove of memoribilia of the R.A.F. in Malta, and Malta’s wartime air defence. Hawker Hurricane and Supermarine Spitfire in aviation sheds. Great for kids too!
Lascaris War Rooms, Valletta: one of only four remaining WWII military operations rooms remaining (currently closed though).
Mgarr Second World War Shelter: Located under Il-Barri Restaurant, this is one of the largest underground shelters on the islands. Recently restored and open to visitors, it shows the hard life in the shelters for the local farming community. Open: Tue – Sat: 9.00am till 2.00pm; Sun: 9.00am till 11.00am

Forts, Barracks & Fortifications
Pill boxes & Gun Posts: these dot the skyline of Valletta’s perimeter. There’s a pill box now turned cafe-snack bar on the corner of Marasamxett and St Sebastian Streets just before the War Museum. If you do a harbour cruise or get under sail, you’ll see just how many concrete pill boxes there are still preserved around Valletta. For anti-aircraft gun posts, a good example is through the car park at the end of South Street, Valletta, overlooking Marsamxett Harbour.

Victoria Lines
This line of inland defence – built up with walls, forts and batteries – runs along a natural ‘great fault’ some 12km, in effect dividing southern and northern Malta. The fault has proved a natural defensive ridge since prehistoric times, but it was under British rule in the mid-1870s that it was fortified more extensively. Forts along its length include Fort Madliena, Fort Binġemma, and Fort Mosta – which is open to the public. Join one of three tours Mon-Fri; 09.30 – 12.30.

Pembroke
This area of Malta, just north of the Paceville/St George’s Bay area was the base of British military life in Malta, with its officers’ mess, barracks and married quarters. A drive around Pembroke gives you old, crumbling barracks, those put to new uses, as well as Australia Hall – still standing though somewhat derelict, but once an entertainment venue and cinema built in 1915 – and a host of wonderful street names like Alamein, Normandy and Anzio.

Auberge d’Angleterre, Birgu: first home of the English Knights of St John in Malta before the Order moved to Valletta. Today, it’s home to Birgu Libary. You can pop inside the courtyard and view, but it’s not an official tourist sight.

Outdoor Sights

Dockyards: all the Three Cities area is of interest as the heartland of Malta’s naval history and maritime trade. Good to view from across Grand Harbour, and Upper Barrakka Gardens.

Garden of Rest, Floriana or Msida Bastion Cemetery, or ‘the Protestant Cemetery’: wonderfully tranquil spot with great views of the inner reaches (Msida Creek) of Marsamxett Harbour. Well tended, open to the public. Read the gravestones. Even holds concerts!

Queen Victoria statue, Palace Square Valletta
Victoria Gate, Valletta

Old Saluting Battery: Sited below Upper Barrakka Gardens, Valletta, the battery not only has the Grand Harbour views, but also offers a chance to learn how cannons worked and were fired in days gone by. Two guided tours daily just before and after the firing of the noon-day gun at 11.15 and 12.15.

Sir Alexander Ball memorial, Lower Barrakka Gardens. Great views from these gardens out to sea and over the Fallen Soldier and Siege Bell memorials. Sir Alexander Ball was Malta’s last British Governor.

George Cross commemoration plaque on the Palace, Valletta. The Cross itself and King George VI’s message are on display in the War Museum (see above).

St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral, Valletta

Kenuna Tower, Nadur, Gozo: one of three semaphore towers built by the British in 1848 on the cliffs near Nadur.

Ta’ Qali & Hal-Far airfields: the Aviation Museum, Ta’ Qali, is the best source of information on airfield history.

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A living crib at the 'Bethlehem of Ghajnsielem', Gozo

We list the Christmassy things to do on the Maltese Islands this festive season. We all know (and usually love) the regular pantomimes that run throughout the holiday weeks, but there’s a host of other seasonal things to do. We’ve the overtly religious and the less religious, but fun and festive – ranging from the magical carol concert in St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta, to fun events like theatre for the kids.

So, scroll on down the long list, and take your pick from the bunch. See also our What’s On for a whole lot more…

Cribs & Nativity

Christmas Village at Ghajnsielem, Gozo
6 December – 9 January 2010
Details: Bethlehem in Ghajnsielem website
Ghajnsielem Local Council has come up with a new and unique attraction this year – a Nativity Village which is set up just off the town’s main square. It includes an animated crib as well as a mock-up village with a carpenter, blacksmith’s, bakery, a market selling natural fruits, fresh fish and vegetables, a tavern, a local crafts area and a stable hosting the animals. For more information contact Ghajnsielem Local Council
Email: info@ghajnsielem.com

Christmas at the Inquisitor’s Palace
Friday 11th December at 19.00 hrs.
Heritage Malta is organising a Christmas-themed ‘experience’ at the Inquisitors Palace, Vittoriosa. The event includes a tour of the miniature cribs on permanent display, and a crib and pasturi (figurine) making session and a themed supper. Ideal for all the family.
Tickets from the Inquisitors Palace, The National Museum of Fine Arts the Domvs Romana and the Museum of Archaeology in Gozo. For details, contact Judy Camilleri on 22954312.

Christmas Cribs Exhibition, Auberge d’Italie, Valletta,
19 December 2009 – 6 January, 2010
The Tourism Secretariat and the Malta Tourism Authority join forces with the Ghaqda Hbieb tal-Presepju, (Malta), to put on a Christmas Cribs exhibition inside the premises of the Secretariat at the Auberge D’Italie.
25 cribs on display together with two impressive floral decorations and numerous paintings and ceramic and displays. One particular crib features Herod’s temple.
Times: open daily from with the exception of 25 December, 1 January and Sundays. 09:00 to 18.00hrs, Monday to Friday; and 09:30 – 12:30 on Saturdays. Entrance is free.
Details: and to find out about Malta’s crib traditions visit: www.presepjumalta.org.

Carol Concerts, Church Mass & Music

St George’s Square XMAS Events, Valletta, 10 December, from 17.00.
17:00 – Concert by Tenor Aldo Busuttil and the University Junior College Orchestra
18:30 – March by the National Philharmonic Society La Valette and the King’s Own Band Club
19:30 – Musical concert by the Valletta Band Clubs
Note: St George’s Square has events on other days in December: 11, 12, 16, 18,19, 20, 21 (Malta Police Band Xmas concert, 21st & 24th), 22 (Malta Armed Forces Xmas Concert).

‘Musical Tidings’, choral concert by The New Choral Singers
St Francis Church, Valletta
12 December, 20.00
Details: www.thenewchoralsingers.com
The programme includes traditional carols from medieval times and the renaissance through to contemporary works. Audience participation for some popular numbers!
Entrance: Free but a collection will be held in aid of Caritas Malta.
Email: info@thenewchoralsingers.com

Mass for School Children at St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta
16 December, 11.30
See Cathedral website for details.

Ceremony of Carols at St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta
17 December, 19.30 – 22.30
A Ceremony of Carols is The Amadeus Chamber Choir’s 19th edition of ‘A Prelude to Christmas’. It comprises a selection of traditional Christmas carols, featuring compositions by Benjamin Britten which the 30-strong choir sing to the accompaniment of a chamber orchestra. All proceeds will be in aid of Puttinu Cares.
Entrance: Invitations may be acquired against a donation of €5 per person.
Invitations available at: Lotto Office Kiosk, Valletta (opposite BOV in Republic Street) – mob. 7920 0118
Marlow’s Stationery, Triq il-Qasam Swieqi – mob. 9989 0931, tel. 2137 1210, or
Email: theamadeuschoir@gmail.com

A Christmas Celebration, St Paul’s Cathedral, Mdina Cathedral, Mdina.
18 December, 19.30 – 21.00.
The St Monica Choir will be teaming with the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra once again for a concert that’s billed as ‘a perfect introduction to the festive season’. The event will be held under the patronage of H.E. Dr George Abela and Mrs Abela to raise funds for the Community Chest Fund. Conductor: Michael Laus.

Carol Concerts & Christmas Mass: St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral (Anglican), Valletta, and other Anglican churches in Malta.
Various concerts and services in the run-up to Christmas. For details, see: www.anglicanmalta.org
11 December: Arlene Barlow’s Christmas Concert 19.30 pm
16 December: Ecumenical Carol Service – Fontana Parish Church Gozo
20 December: Nine Lessons & Carols – Pro Cathedral, Valletta 18.00
21 December: Nine Lessons & Carols – Holy Trinity Church, Sliema 18.30
23 December: Eucharist, Lessons and Carols – Seminary Gozo 11.00
24 December: Midnight Mass – St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral 23.30
24 December: Midnight Mass – Holy Trinity 23.30
Christmas Day Service – Holy Trinity 10.00
Christmas Day Service – St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral 11.00

Enkor Gospel Choir, St James’ Church, Merchants Street, Valletta
19 December, 13.30

Vocal & Harp Reciptal, St Barbara Church, Valletta
23 December, 11.00

Special Outdoor Events

St George’s Square XMAS Events, Valletta, 8 December
Parades, face-painting, brass bands, concerts and more, at this public holiday event in the capital. Starts at 11.00 with the Scout and Guide parade and goes on into the evening with a gospel choir at 8pm.

Kids

Pantomine (in Maltese): Robin ‘inn’ Cruise Ohhhhh!,
St. Mary’s Church – Gudja
5, 6, 7 & 8 December. 19.30 – 20.00.
Tickets: tel: 7920 3805
Another rip-roaring panto by the Gudja Youth Group. Robin ‘ZINN’ Cruise Ohhhhh! promises to be in the full panto spirit of song, dance and wacky costumes. Good all-round family entertainment.

The Children’s Magical Christmas
8 December, by drama group Curtain Raiser at Buskett Roadhouse, Buskett Gardens, 10.00 – 20.00
All day long Christmas activities for children with five different interactive shows, as well as bouncy Castles, christmas treasure hunt with Captain Hook, face painting, children’s Christmas disco, Christmas food stalls, Christmas characters such as gingerbread man, snowman, Father Christmas, elves and more …
Details: tel: 2189-5072 / 7991-8857 or email: info@curtainraiser.org> or see www.curtainraiser.org.

Fantasy Circus
10 December – 3 January, 2010, venue: Blata l-Bajda (approach to Valletta)
Ticket hotlines: 99999964/ 71494106/ 99515042
Price: Adults €10; Children €5

Downtown Fairytown, a musical Christmas bash for children aged 3-7 at St James Cavalier, Valletta.
19 December – 10 January
Talking houses, aliens visiting at Christmas time, fairies preparing for their Christmas show, a nasty Witch ready to spoil all the fun, a robot who wants to know all about Christmas, and much more!
Monday – Wednesday shows at 6pm
Thursday: No shows
Saturday – Sunday shows at 2pm and 6pm

Santa’s Kingdom, Splash & Fun Grounds
18 December – 3 January, 2010. 18.00 – 23.55.
See: www.splashandfun.com.mt or call: 21 374286.
Billed as two weeks of magic, music and merriment. Visit the Enchanted Forest and walk through Santa’s House. Meet Santa, Mrs Claus and those mischievous little elves. A Fairytale come to life. Plus crib, animated figures and the Christmas story relived.

Aladdin, The Pantomine, Manoel Theatre, Valletta
18 December 2009 – 6 January, 20.00hrs.
Details & Tickets see: Manoel Theatre website
Masquerade presents a traditional pantomime at the Manoel Theatre. New ideas may be, but set in a traditional context, with a well-written and locally-based script. A must for pantomime lovers.
Performance dates: Mon – Fri at 7.30pm; Sat & Sun 3pm & 8pm; and from Saturday 2nd January 2010 to Wednesday 6th January 2010:
Time: Mon – Fri at 7.30pm; Sat & Sun 3pm & 8pm.

Peter Panto at MFCC, Ta’ Qali
18 December 2009 – 3 January 2010.
Runs: 20.00 to 23.00 hrs.
Details, see: Malta Amateur Dramatic Company website.
The MADC presents a fresh take on the classic tale of Peter Pan with a script written by Nanette Brimmer and directed by Alan Montanaro, who is also playing Captain Hook. The MADC has secured the services of Nick Kirkby, whose great-grandfather took care of the flying for J.M. Barrie in the original production of ‘Peter Pan’!
Tickets start from Euro 10. Children’s tickets are discounted and are valid for children aged 10 and under. Booking is open at www.madc.biz or tel. no: 7979MADC (6232).

Photo: courtesy of Bethlehem of Ghajnsielem

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A weekend of blending cutural pleasures - wine, art, books - at Valletta's Fine Arts Museum

Valletta may be more well known for its history and cultural past than its cultural present. But it’s been doing very well of late in living up to its name as it plays host to all sorts of literary, musical, artistic, festive, theatrical and gastronomic events, month in month out.

This weekend sees another art and wine special at the National Museum of Fine Arts, South Street, with a programme throughout 28 & 29 November. The event is aimed at giving us ‘ a passport to enter a world of colours, visit amazing places and meet interesting people…’.

So, it’s a bit of a medley really, but sounds worth investigating, especially if you’ve kids in tow, or are at a loose end – Sunday afternoon, characters in historical costume will be walking the museum’s corridors! And adults might like the ‘Art & Wine @ South Street’ on Saturday evening – another in what’s become a series of such evenings. This time, Maltese contemporary artist Caesar Attard is discussing his works.

Midsea Books, which is co-hosting the event along with Heritage Malta, has a range of their Melintensia books on sale, to complement the talks, presentations, exhibits, and films.

Other highlights:
Saturday at 11.00 hrs, art historian Lino Borg will discuss printing techniques; and there will be what are described as ‘historic films’ screened in the afternoon.
Sunday morning sees a special presentation of Midsea Book’s publication of The Year Baroque Painting in Malta, delivered by its author Keith Sciberras PhD. Sunday afternoon, graphic artist Mark Scicluna, designer of a set of five bookmarks featuring artists represented in the National Collection, will be around.
Fun & Fact:
There are story-telling sessions at times throughout the weekend, as well as special tours for those who may not have ventured into the world of art before. The event also includes music, book prizes and a quiz desk.

Admission:
Entrance to the museum will be free on Saturday and Sunday but donations are welcomed. Further information from Heritage Malta.

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