Wherever I pitch my tent is my home. The Maltese outwardbound.

For a nation with little outdoor space, the Maltese are ingenious about using what there is. We’ve a lot of flat dwellers in Malta as buildings go high-rise, and most people with terraced houses have only a small backyard big enough for gas bottles and a lemon tree. So balconies, roofs, the front door step and whatever other patch of concrete can be pressed into action is used to the hilt in the hot summer months to serve as a social space to meet friends in and a place to cool off on.

When Maltese urbanites get a whiff of real space – mostly early morning or late evening on the beach at this time of year – then we’ll take nearly everything but the kitchen sink to ensure we stake our claim on a patch of earth to last the whole day or night. Having spent quite a few hours at Golden Bay this summer, I’ve noticed some amazing apparatus disgorged from car boots and lugged beachwards. I’ve seen what looked like mini marquees erected with much familial bickering. And at Ghajn Tuffieha, I’ve witnessed a procession of cool boxes and BBQ sets being carried by families ressembling armies of ants crawling down those steps. I don’t think the aim is to travel light. People in Malta try their hardest to get a parking space right where they need to be, so the volume of gear probably doesn’t won’t worry them on arrival.

Now these little tents in the photo above, seen on Golden Bay mid morning last weekend, are those of the summer species of young, overnight camper. A Liddl bag of goodies, a BBQ, a simple frame tent, and a 20-minute drive to your destination and you’re all set up for a real outward-bound camping experience Malta style. If the BBQ fails, then there are quite conveniently four restaurants five minutes away. So don’t worry if someone forgets the firelighters or matches.

We’d really like to have more excitement, hardship and roughing it, really we would, but Malta has limited outdoors to camp out in. We’ve far too much rocky garrigue around for tent pegs to go in. The beach is a soft alternative, in more ways than one. And who can blame us? We like our home comforts…when we’re in our homeland. But that’s not to say we’re not intrepid travelers and adventurers elsewhere. See our posts on ‘Three men and a mountain‘, and ‘the Maltese are everywhere‘ for some evidence of that.

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Beautiful blobs that blight some Malta beaches - but only sometimes

My six-year-old son has barely been in the water this summer. Shame, as there’s little else kids can do for three months’ summer holiday on an island in the Med! He swam last summer. So why not this one?

Well, part of the reason is jellyfish. Earlier on this season, in June and at the start of July, several of Malta’s popular beaches had jellyfish infestation. He spent at least two stints on the beach scooping up some real whoppers, and burying them. That was enough to convince him that the seas around Malta are full of nasties – jellyfish, Portuguese men of war, and such like.

Of course, the truth is far from that. Apart from perhaps 2-3 jellyfish, no-go-swim days, but I’ve swum quite happily at Golden Bay and Ghajn Tuffieha for around two months without incident, stings, or nasties. Jellyfish come and go, according to tide, winds, lunar pull, bloom rates, and so on. You may have a day with them (so go prepared with some vinegar or sting relief spray), but the next day on the beach could be fine. Generally, the jellyfish volumes are no worse this year than previous ones, and certainly not something to panic or throw a wobbly about.

My son is at the age of reasoning, and armed with a library of ‘ocean explorer’ and ‘predators of the sea’ type books, he knows now what he didn’t know at age two or four. So, it’s pools for him for a while, till he reasons it out.

Jellyfish trends: There seems to be no clear data on jellyfish volumes, but in certain parts of the world (off Namibia for example) scientists have discovered that jellyfish biomass outweighs that of fish. Their arrival is seasonal, and related to sea temperatures and availability of food, or the lack of their predators (sea turtles for instance). They do thrive in oxygen-poor waters so sea pollution worldwide may have helped their blooming.

Treating stings: there’s a lot of information on this. See Wikipedia for a full low-down. But to treat a minor injury from a jellyfish sting in Maltese waters, you’ll probably only need diluted vinegar or a sting relief. Make sure you protect yourself when removing any stuck tentacles. If in any doubt, and especially if treating a child, do seek medical assistance. The levels of toxicity vary according to jellyfish type, and we can all react differently to a sting. Golden Bay has a lifeguard who can assist; many other beaches have food kiosks nearby which can no doubt give you some vinegar. Ambulance service tel: 196.

Photo: Dragan Donkov

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Ghajn Tuffieha: a natural beach, that's unnaturally empty for Malta.

Just next to Golden Bay is Ghajn Tuffieha Bay (also known as Riviera) – which has always been my preferred of the two. The fact that there is a quite steep flight of steps to descend to get to the beach means that the location doesn’t attract the same volume of people as Golden Bay. However, since Ghajn Tuffieha is a lot smaller, in peak summer it gets crowded that much quicker. I also have the impression that the sandy area of the beach has shrunk considerably over the past few years, with the constant pounding of the waves making it even smaller than it was. In rougher weather, with larger waves, you’ll be hard pushed to find much sand at all!

Pros: Location-wise, I consider this to be the most beautiful sandy beach on the island of Malta (Gozo has my other favourite sandy beach, Ramla Bay). The fact that it is slightly less accessible gives the beach a particularly natural atmosphere. The Gaia Foundation runs the hillside behind as a ‘national park’ and they have made efforts to stop erosion by planing tamarisk trees and samphire. A derelict hotel perched on a cliff overlooking the beach adds to the beach’s more secluded atmosphere of the area. On less hot days, it is lovely to hike around the cliffs surrounding the bay and, in spring, the beach is surrounded by flowers and greenery which, sadly, all but dries up in the hot summer months. A watch tower from the time of the Knights stands on a cliff at one end of the bay; and a fascinating rock formation on the other. A walk further inside the beach towards the rocky section can provide some (relative) privacy which is hard to find on Maltese sandy beaches in summer. An ideal place to take a book to, lie down on the sand in, and just relax.

Cons: The undercurrents in this beach can be extremely strong. Therefore it is not advisable to swim here when the sea is rough. Some people have ignored this in the past and a few have even lost their lives. There is a flag system now, giving various info on swimming conditions, and a string of buoys and lifelines out in the bay. But unlike at Golden Bay, there are no lifeguards on duty. Then there are those STEPS! I know many people hate them (especially on the way back after a day at the beach). The sandy space on the beach is rather small. It is not the most suitable of beaches if you are accompanied by small children. You also have stones to negotiate to enter the water, and a few nasty underwater rock. So keep eyes peeled, especially with kids in tow. There is just one (largish) kiosk on the beach with patio seating, which is good for those looking for something a bit less intrusive. Those looking for more action, music and fun should probably look elsewhere.

Verdict: Good for those fit and active enough to walk down the steps to get to the beach! Ideal for couples seeking some seclusion; not ideal for families with young kids. Great for late afternoon-evening swims, BBQs, and sundown -so photographers, get that camera ready!

How to get there:
From Valletta: Buses 47 or 52 – every 30 mins from 6.00am till 7.30pm.
From Bugibba: Buses 70 or 652 – every 20 mins from 8.00am till 9.00pm (Winter till 7.10pm).

Map: it’s the middle bay on the map.

View Malta Sandy Beach Guide in a larger map

Photo: Andrew Galea Debono

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Pretty much an eyesore Bay. Nice sand, shame about the view.

This is the only sandy beach in the south of the island. Like St. George’s Bay, this is an artificially sandy beach – once upon a time it was a large rocky beach.

This rather sizeable beach is surrounded by the little town of Birzebbugia and would really live up to its name of ‘pretty’ if it were not for the huge Freeport right in front of it. In fact, it came into being as a result of the Freeport – probably a kind of recompense to the locals for the blot on the landscape.

Pros: Close for those living in the South or who are visiting some of the temples and other historical sites in the area. Easy access to all the necessary facilities available in town, including a couple of decent and cheap fish restaurants. There is a 5-a-side football pitch for those wishing to play some ball. Very close to the bus stop.

Cons: It has a very urban feel to it, being close to a road, town and huge Freeport. Much less beautiful than the options in the North.

Verdict: Hard to call this one. If you’re Maltese and not living in the South, I doubt you’d go out of your way to go to swim here. But I’ve met visitors who’ve spent happy times on Pretty Bay, hardly moving elsewhere. It is probably worth a stop if you’re touring the South (temples, fishing village of Marxalokk) or been to Playmobil with the kids and need a dip after.

How to get there:
From Valletta: Bus 11 – every 15 mins from 5.30am till 10.30pm.

View Malta Sandy Beach Guide in a larger map

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An August Sunday on Golden Bay - and still space at midday!

Golden Bay is the most developed and popular of a trio of sandy beaches in the north west of the island (the others are Ghajn Tuffieha and Gnejna).

Some of its pros can also be its cons – such as the large hotel, the Radisson Golden Sands, on a cliff overlooking the beach; some think it’s an eyesore, while others love the good value beach restaurant which is part of the complex.

Golden Bay has seen quite some visitor-friendly improvements this year, such as ample litter bins, a lifeguard, and a colour-coded flag system indicating for instance rough seas/dangerous swimming conditions, ‘pests’ (aka jellyfish), calm sea, currents and so on. Go early, and you’ll notice the beach is ploughed every morning to give fresh, smooth sand, and bins are emptied!

Pros: Facilities are at hand: you’ll find everything you need for a day’s stay, such as food kiosks, umbrella and deckchair rental and even a rather good restaurant close by. Public toilets in the car park. The bus stop is not too far off from the beach (a short downhill walk on your arrival – though in peak summer, perhaps a less pleasant 5 minute walk uphill at the end of a day at the beach). You can rent out jet skis and other water sports gear. It’s the only beach in Malta that has a lifeguard – overall, it’s one of the most kid-friendly beaches in Malta. And if you’re still hanging around by late evening, you’re likely to catch some very fine sunsets.

Cons: The five-star hotel dominates part of the sky-line and can be over-powering. It can also get very busy by late morning, as coachloads of young students are deposited on the beach. Fine if you’re one of them, but if not….it can get noisy – so it’s definitely not for those seeking a romantic day out away from the madding crowds. Sometimes, the beach hosts events like beach volleyball contests or chill out MTV gigs (both were held in early-mid July this year), which can take up quite some space and generate noisy music.

Verdict: Great amenities. Easy to get to if you have a car; kid-friendly; and always busy with the exception of the odd weekday – though the depth of the sandy beach means that you generally find space.

How to get there:
From Valletta: Buses 47 or 52 – every 30 mins from 6.00am till 7.30pm.
From Bugibba: Buses 70 or 652 – every 20 mins from 8.00am till 9.00pm (Winter till 7.10pm).
From Sliema: Bus 652 – every 30 mins from 8.45am till 6.15pm.

Parking: small carpark right next to beach which is already full peak summer by 08.30. Pay the resident parking guy a euro or two when you leave. Other on road parking but with a longer walk to the beach.

View Malta Sandy Beach Guide in a larger map

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St George's Bay: even better by night when it's ideal for chill out time.

St George’s Bay, on the edge of Paceville/St Julian’s is a reasonable sweep of seafront promenade with a small sandy beach. It’s a recent addition to the circuit of beaches in Malta; the sand having been brought in from abroad.

St George’s is quite a pleasant place and picturesque in its way. Some boats moored just off shore give it a feeling of quaintness, despite the beach’s proximity to one of Malta’s busiest, most urban areas – renowned more for nightlife, entertainment, and shopping than beach bumming.

It’s ideal for a dip and relax if you’re staying in the many hotels in the area and don’t have transport or can’t be bothered to bus it somewhere further afield. It’s easily reachable on foot for those living in Paceville or St. Julian’s.

Pros: It’s convenient, as it’s right in the heart of Malta’s most lively area. There are showers, toilets and plenty of restaurants and other eateries in the area. There is also a shopping complex and cinemas only minutes away on foot. It is ideal for those who are in the area who feel like lazing on the sand after a day of activities without having to catch any transport.

Cons: Well, it’s in an urban area (though immediately behind the seafront is a private walled garden, so it’s not totally overlooked by soaring tower blocks). It’s close to a the bay road. It’s not exactly the getaway to a natural area as the sandy beaches in the north are. Can be very crowded, and popular with ‘youth’ and kids/families. Language school students tend to hang out here after lessons, so expect it to be busy.

Verdict: Good for a quick dip and relax daytime, or a nice evening, sundown chill out. Ideal if you’re based locally/have young kids/short of time or don’t have transport/or want some fresh air and space for chill out time at night, away from the hub of things in Paceville.

How to get there:
Buses 62, 64, 66, 67, 68, 662, 667 and 671 all pass very frequently through St. Julian’s from 5.30 till 11.00pm.

For a list and location map of ALL Malta’s sandy beaches, click here

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Practise Safe Sun in Malta this summer.

I landed back in Malta around midnight last night, when the temperature was close to 30 degrees. This morning, even my 200 year-old farmhouse with metre-thick limestone walls was running a sweat. The humidity factor was around 80 per cent and stiffling.

People who visit Malta in peak summer often end up with heat-stroke, bad sun-burn and worse. Here are some quick tips on how to survive a heatwave in Malta:

1. Ideally, don’t get direct sun exposure between 11.00 and 15.30hrs. Remember the silly ditty about ‘Mad dogs and Englishmen’? Well, there’s still a large element of truth. If you can, stay indoors and catch a siesta when the sun is at its hottest.

2. Use sunblock factor 30. Anything else is useless. We’ve all read about how too much sun accelerates the ageing process. It’s time to put all this into practice.

3. Wear a hat with a brim. A large one. Baseball caps do nothing for the ears and neck.

4. Drink plenty of water. Stay away from any alcohol if you are in the sun. If you want something flavoured, try Kinnie. It’s an acquired taste, but part of our heritage and might give you a bit of an energy boost, and has a bitter-sweet kick.

5. Be careful of staying in front of an air-conditioner for a long period. You can get an ice-cream headache when you get away from it. And they do circulate germs.

6. Keep young children covered. We repeatedly see young, fair-skinned children playing on a beach and going salmon-pink. Consider getting some UV protective swim wear. Local children often have just bathers on, but don’t do as they do if you’re a short-stay visitor with young kids here on holiday.

7. If you are on an open-top tourist bus, or on a boat, you may not be too hot as there’ll always be a nice breeze whizzing by. But while you’re staying cooler, your skin is far more exposed and in practice, you’re dehydrating as quickly as if you were standing still in the middle of Republic Street. Take the same precautions!

8. Wear loose-fitting cotton or linen clothing – go for natural fibres. Save the lycra for other places.

9. Sometimes, soaking a bandana in water gives some respite.

10. If you want to spend a whole day on beach, rent an umbrella. Most beaches have these in abundance for a relatively modest charge. It can certainly get you to enjoy a painless stay. But remember that harmful UV rays bounce off the sand and under your umbrella too! So don’t forget the suncream.

11. And, to really go native, go early morning or very late afternoon to the beach. Dive off into a beach bar or back to your hotel for lunch and a siesta.

During the June heatwave in the UK this year, many a newspaper asked why the British were so ill-equipped to cope when continentals and Mediterranean folk live though temperatures 30 degree C and upward every year. The answer: well, we don’t pack in all our sunbathing in a few short days, so there’s far less pressure to ‘be out in the sun’ come what may; and we hibernate as much as we can around the midday to mid-noon hours.

Our watchwords: Heat can bring harm, not just happiness.

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Some like it crowded too! But Blue Lagoon is worth battling the boats and bodies for.

A beach-a-day guide to Malta’s main sandy beaches

Malta has a mainly rocky coastline, but, when we started to compile the list of sandy beaches here, we found that contrary to many tourists’ (and locals’) expectations, the islands do actually have a lot of sandy bays, beaches and inlets to offer. Certainly enough sand to accommodate 400,000+ Maltese and the swell of summer visitors.

Love it or hate it, sand is a crowd puller. Especially with language students who arrive in droves on the beach in the midday sun, and Maltese families, who tend to come and go very early or very late to sensibly avoid the searing heat, or to BBQ well into the evening.

Many people enjoy lazing on the beach as much as, if not more than, actually swimming in the sea. Not a bad policy if it’s a year of jelly fish infested waters! It’s not been too bad this year, but take precautions (and some diluted vinegar with you).

In the main, Malta’s popular sandy beaches have seen some improvements in the past year or two: Golden Bay for instance now has lifeguards, adequate rubbish bins and lifelines anchored on buoys to help swimmers when it’s rough seas. This is reassuring. More could be done on many other beaches, but it’s a start.

The plus about Malta’s sandy beaches is that they are mostly found in natural settings in the countryside so don’t have the ugliness of built-up promenades behind them. It also means some have few facilities. So go prepared with enough sun cream, water, snacks and sting relief.

If you can, it’s best to avoid sandy beaches at weekends in peak summer unless it’s actually the hustle and bustle of crowds you’re looking for.

Here, we’ve listed the main sandy beaches in Malta, Gozo and Comino. Click ‘Larger Map’ link below to see where they are in detail. We’ll be putting up more more info on beaches’ pros and cons, photos, and ‘how to get there’ details on each beach in the coming days, with links from this page. So do check back.

And we welcome your comments and experiences so we can post an honest low-down on each beach!

Photo: Chris Farrugia

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Sandy Beaches list

We’ll be putting up a post on each beach in the next week with links from here.

Malta

Golden Bay
Ghajn Tuffieha
Gnejna Bay
Paradise Bay
Armier & Little Armier
Mellieha Bay
Mistra Bay
St George’s Bay
Pretty Bay, Birzebuggia

Gozo

Ramla Bay
Xlendi Bay

Comino

Blue Lagoon

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