Stay Cool in Hot Malta: Go Underground
Written by Annabel Mallia
One way to stay cool. But for longer lasting coolness, go underground!
So, if you’re joining us heat-bored or -averse locals, and not inclined to the hit the beach every day of your stay, what are the cool alternatives? Well, caves and catacombs of course, and the odd wood or garden.
1. Catacombs
Catacombs are cool. Not as in “Hey, dude” cool, but temperature-wise. There are St Paul’s and St Agatha’s Catacombs at Rabat, both wonderfully cool. There is also the subterranean Hypogeum at Paola (numbers of visitors limited; pre-booking compulsory). The site is not only cool but also an amazing feat of neolithic skill – be overawed by this smoothly-finished complex of underground rooms and passages way underground.
2. Caves
Hasan’s Cave near Hal Far has a stunning view from the vertical cliff and is quite a large complex of caves. It was closed for some time due to safety issues, so check whether it’s open before going. A torch is a must as the lighting was barely adequate when I visited some years ago, and the floor is very uneven.
There is also Ghar il-Kbir near Clapham Junction, close to Buskett. It’s a bit of a trek across a field, but shady and interesting. It would be much shadier had the British not decided to blow the roof in order to evict the troglodytic dwellers whom they considered were living in insanitary conditions. An even better opportunity to stay cool in summer lost for ever!
3. Gozo Caverns
In the village of Xaghra, Gozo, there are two underground caverns; one very small, one slightly more substantial. Both have stalactites and stalagmites and are damp and refreshing after the heat above ground. They are accessible through private houses so one must visit during the official opening hours.
4. Gardens and Woods
Trees are shady and cool: try Buskett Gardens after 4pm or the woods at Mizieb near Manikata. There are many gardens which are little known: Hastings, Sa Maison, Argotti and Herbert Ganado Gardens as well as the better known Upper and Lower Barakka Gardens. There are the San Anton Gardens near the Corinthia Palace Hotel in Attard and the Romeo Romano Gardens at Santa Venera, both of which provide welcome shade and a quiet retreat from the dusty summer streets.
Photo: Walter Lo Cascio
[...] – The cat won’t move for hours on end – Ants start invading your kitchen – Yells, bells and smells greet you on every street (festas, food stalls, car windows open, TVs blaring through open doors…) – Families, old and young members like, perch outside on chairs, doorsteps and kerbs to chat – Drivers of heavy vehicles strip to vests – Valletta’s (now in name only) City Gate area reeks of sweets, diesel and sweat – Tarmac starts to melt and rutch up – Kids eat an ice cream a day – Tourists are on the beach at midday; while Maltese turn up after 5.30pm – Drivers start getting more abusive as heat = road rage – You hear every festa wherever you are on the islands – Town and village festas close roads and cause tailbacks (people kerb-crawling watching fireworks) – There’s barely a local to be seen in village streets after midday. – You can park in Valletta easily after midday – public servants have all gone home! – Government offices rarely answer phones after midday – Paceville is a no-go zone for a whole lot of reasons! – You can hear clubbing venues’ music even if you’re miles away – Beer not wine is the drink you want when dining out – Aircon firms charge a whole lot more for call-outs (get servicing done by end May next year!) – Whole families perch quayside with fishing rods as the sun sets – Beaches get BBQs galore – Beaches get filled up by large groups of language students (from midday at weekends, so plan to go other times!) – You know it’s summer when you’ve had enough of going to the beach and look elsewhere for things to do. [...]